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Default power-on frequency/mode question

 

I have tried looking this up in the manual and was unsuccessful in locating it.

My radio seems to default to 7.0 Mhz if has been off for more than a few minutes.

How does one set the default frequency/mode the radio will go to when it is powered on? Or is there a battery on the system board that I should be replacing so that it will power-up on the frequency/mode which it was tuned to?

Thanks in advance.

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Posted by: Eugene <eugene-Wqcw+lzzVuI@public.gmane.org>
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FT100 | 1 Apr 11:03 2015
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File - FT100 Group Guidelines.txt

 


The FT100 Group averages around 150-200 messages per month.
Because the volume of messages is rather large, I would
like to remind everyone of a few long-standing FT100
guidelines to follow. Most of you do so already.

Look at the home page for the FT100 Group for links to the
FAQ, Knowledge Base, and Manuals for the FT-100/D.

1. Civility. (This is practiced well by our members!)

2. Please sign your messages with name and call sign, e.g.,
Fred - W1XYZ.

3. When replying to a posting (message), kindly delete all
unnecessary text including the trailing text. Only leave the text
from the prior message to which you are replying ... <snip> the
rest. If one desires to read the entire thread, the command [Up
Thread] at the top of the message can be used to read the entire
discussion. Remember also that a lot of members have slow
connections and some even pay connect time or characters rx/tx. This
also helps the clarity of your message.

4. When replying to a post, please decide if your comment should be
to the entire group of over 3,000 or directly to the author of the
post. When you click on "Reply," it goes to everyone. To reply
direct (simplex), you should click on the email address following the
user ID line at the top of the post. Notice that only a part is
shown for privacy. Also, please think about if what you are about to
post in reply to the group really should be to the group ... replies
like "I sure do agree with that" doesn't add much to the group. Send
thoughts like those direct to the poster please.

5. It is fine for members to post something for sale or wanted to
buy ... once per item(s). All questions and offers to buy/sell
should be made directly to the poster, not to the Group. The member
posting the FS or WTB may post that the item(s) was/were
sold/purchased.

6. Posting of commercial items for sale by manufacturers or dealers
is also fine, but should be done on an infrequent basis. The FT100
members benefit by learning of hardware, software, sales, etc. before
it appears in magazines, etc.

7. New members are all moderated until their first posting. If it
follows the guidelines, it is approved and the member is change to
unmoderated status. This list is a partially moderated list, i.e.,
only first message is moderated while later messages are monitored
after posting. If an unmoderated posting is found by the moderators
to have a problem, then the poster is contacted directly to resolve.
Actions are taken against those that chronically violate the rules.
The reason for this form of moderation is to block spammers from the
list and it has been working.

8. Do not add disclaimers to your posts that (1) restrict the ability
of other members to use the information you post, (2) claim a copyright
to your post, or (3) to claim any type of "rights" as a consequence of
another member replying to you post either directly to you or to the group.

Thanks to all es 73,
Barry - W4WB
Moderator

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Changed Battery & Fixed Intermittent Speaker Connection

 

I figured that I'd share some of what I went through in doing a couple fixes to my FT-100.


**** Change the Battery: ****


I started out by writing down all of my normal settings and the Hidden Menu "F" settings (reference the FAQ to get at the "F" settings.  For what it's worth, I didn't lose any of these settings.   My old battery (about 15 years old) measured 2.5 volts, the new one measured 3.6 volts.


I did, however lose the programmed frequencies.  I forgot to write them down!


To changed the battery on the Control Unit, you need to removing both the top and bottom cover and remove the 4 screws that hol d the Sub Panel and Front Frame from the front of the unit (with the front tuning panel removed).  There are 3 wide white cables that connect it to the top of the unit.  To remove these, you need to lift up gently on the upper ring around the connectors (both sides), then pull the cables straight up.  There is also another white cable (narrower) that is connected toward the bottom of the Control Unit.  Remove this when you tilt the Control Unit down.


From there you can unsolder the two tips of the battery and remove it.  I purchased a CR3032 battery with tabs.  I trimmed the length off just a bit so they wouldn't hang over, soldered it in place and put the unit back together.  As I mentioned, none of the settings in the Function swi tch or the "F" settings changed for me. 


Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Pull the ring around the connectors up, slide the flat cable in place (make sure that they are all the way down) and press both sides down to clamp on the cable.  


**** Intermittent Speaker Connection ****


The speaker jack on the back of my FT-100 has been getting intermittent so I wanted to fix this problem.


You will need some fresh heat sink compound to replace to old dried out stuff that will be on the transistors.


With both the top and bottom covers removed,I would strongly suggest that you carefully study the cable layouts across the PA Unit board.  Take a few digital pictures if you need to. 


Disconnected all of the coaxial cables to the PA Unit (with the final output transistors), the two fan connectors


The "JP3002" connector does not come off, so you need to remove the other end of the cable on the OTHER SIDE of the unit.  I did NOT remove the cable that is connected to JP3001, it was very long and would be difficult.  I found that I could tilt the board away in order to do the soldering to the speaker jack. 


There was another white flat cable on to the board, through to the bottom.  This was fed through a flat ferrite core.   I removed the connector (lift up on both sides and pull it straight up). 

 

Remove the 4 screws in the corners of the board and all of the screws that hold the power transistors and the voltage regulator.  There are 2 screws on the HF power transistors that are somewhat hidden.  I had to cut the white glue that held the torrid core transformer down (over the top of the power transistors) and pulled out some stiff masking type tape from under that transformer.  This allows you to get at the other 2 screws on the HF power transistors.  I placed all of the screws on a clean sheet of paper, roughly placing them relative to where they came out so I would know which ones went where. 


Pull the power cable out from the back, as well as the pigtail connector cable.  This cable you can pull up to the front of the unit go get it out of the way. 


From this point, you should be able to lift the board out GENTLY starting at the center of the unit (the speaker and other connectors are in the back of the unit, so you have to lift at the center and pull it out toward the front.  Watch out, there is STILL JP3001 that is connected on the far side, near the HF power transistors. 


Tilt the board over to get access to re-solder the 3 pins on the speaker jack connections.


Clean off the old silicon heat sink compound using a light dose of a lcohol on a small rag.  Replace the old compound with a very thin coating of heat sink compound.


Again, gently re-insert the board back into place, DON'T FORCE anything!    Put in the outer 4 corner screws (DON'T TIGHTEN ANY SCREWS YET!).  By the way, if you haven't already, you might consider putting some inside lock washers on these outer 4 screws to assure a very good RF contact.  I got this hint from an old forum somewhere, or in the FAQ, I don't remember where...


Put in the screws loosely in all of the power transistors and the voltage regulator.  Once they are all started, you can then go through and start tightening them all down.  Get them tight, but don& #39;t over do it!


Carefully re-route all your cables back into place, making sure that none can be crushed under the covers. 


I did try to glue the torrid transformer down, but I think that it might be better to use just a small bit of silicon seal to keep it in place.


I powered my rig up and checked for power on all bands...  No problems.


Good Luck!!


Mike 

  W0IH

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FT100 repair or parts

 

I have a FT-100D 2K serial number (9/2002) that just wouldn't turn on. It has been in daily use for for about 2 years, mostly using the rx on 40 and 160. Sent it to Tim Moes. He got it to turn on, but it will not go into transmit. Because of squirly operation (will not turn off, some menu buttons refuse to do what they are supposed to do, etc.), I think the CPU has been corrupted, and I don't want to buy the main board so it is for sale.

Has the original mic that produces tones, but no other audio. The buttons all worked. There is also a new Yaesu replacement mic, about 6 months old. It has both the 500 Hz cw and AM filters. The remote head is perfect, and the finals are both 100%. All of the plastics are there and in good condition including t he feet and front panel latch. It has the original Owners Manual, a professionally produced 8 x 10 copy of the manual and the Yaesu Technical Manual. It also includes the LDG Y-ACC one touch tune cable.I am asking $350 + $20.00 for shipping. I could part it out for more, but I am through with it. Great radio, but with a DNR order, it is time to go.  Kevin - wa2isc-ntQ8I44N4zM@public.gmane.org or 315 699 2147

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FT-100 No transmit after MRF1570 mod.

 

I've got a FT-100 I did the MRF1570 V/U final mod on. After finishing installing the mrf1570 it will not go fully into transmit on the v/u side. The red led comes on but no relay click and the current drain is about 2.5 amps and no output at all. HF still works FB. Anybody ever seen this behavior? What could I have screwed up installing the FET?

Marty
N5KBP



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FT-100D repair

 

Does anyone know of a good reliable repair person or shop for the ft-100D. My hf and 6 meter portion works fine, both TX and RX, but the uhf and vhf receiver is dead, the transmit works fine.

   Thanks   Rich  W5XV 

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Fwd: Squelch in AM Mode ?

 



As I recall on my ft100d there is a menu setting to change rf gain to sequence function. Barry k6st

On Thursday, March 19, 2015, peter-qYzYhumXw/oAvxtiuMwx3w@public.gmane.org [FT100] <FT100-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org> wrote:

 

I recently bought a FT100D very pleased, just one thing so far. I use the airband 118 - 137 MHz in AM mode for listening, but it seems that there is no squelch function in AM, am I right or is there some menu setting that could help me.

I know I can back off the RF gain, but that doesn't stop the FT hissing at me all day :).

Any ideas welcomed.


Peter



--
Barry

Barry Bettman, ATL, PCC
"Approved Tribal Leader" consultant for workplace culture
"Professional Certified Coach" with leaders and executives
775-622-3801

LEADERSHIP FOR EVERYONE TO BE GREAT TOGETHER
Executive Producer, Stage 5 Leadership Productions - Real Time High Engagement Teleseminars




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Posted by: K6ST Barry Bettman <k6st-WYrOkVUspZo@public.gmane.org>
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Squelch in AM Mode ?

 

I recently bought a FT100D very pleased, just one thing so far. I use the airband 118 - 137 MHz in AM mode for listening, but it seems that there is no squelch function in AM, am I right or is there some menu setting that could help me.

I know I can back off the RF gain, but that doesn't stop the FT hissing at me all day :).

Any ideas welcomed.


Peter

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FS: FT-100D

 

I have a used and fully functional FT-100D that I would like to sell.


The rig was purchased at a local ham fest in February of 2013 with no output on 2m.  I had the rig serviced by Burghardt Radio Repair Inc, who replaced the VHF & UHF finals and the microphone cable.  The rig has worked flawlessly since that time.


I have the rig installed in my vehicle with a separation kit and will include the kit components that are currently in use.  The cables and connectors are all there, as well as the essential mechanical bits that mount the faceplate.  What is missing are several of the faceplate mount that I didn't use.


I would like $550 for the rig as described.  I will pay for the shipping.


Bob

KO2F

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Memory programming

 

Does anyone know if the Chirp program selection for FT857/FT897 will
also work with the FT100?

Dick
W5TA

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FS: Manual switch for ATAS-100 to use with other rigs

 

I have, for sale, a home brew switch that allows changing the length of the ATAS-100 or 120 using manual control.   


This was built to allow me to use a rig (other than the FT100) with my ATAS-100 to change the band tuning, using a manual Up/Down switch.  I no longer have the ATAS-100, so I no longer have any need for the switch.


I built this device using an internal DC regulator that changes the voltage to the antenna to 8V to pull the antenna DOWN, and 11V to push the antenna UP.  The Input and Output are clearly labeled, and uses BNC connectors.  


Includes an LED for power indication that comes on with the switch.  The circuit also includes a B IAS-TEE circuit to pass the DC to the antenna without shorting the voltage to ground through the rig. This control is connected in the coax line between the rig and the antenna. It requires 12-15 volts input (standard coaxial DC type connector) input.


Tuning procedure is to change the length of the antenna (UP or DOWN) until the rig noise increases, then tweak in low power transmit mode for lowest SWR.  Should work with most 100 Watt rigs into the ATAS-100 or ATAS-120.


Pictures are posted under "ATAS Manual Switch", in the FT-100 group photos, which should be:

 Th e Yaesu FT-100 & FT-100D List


I'm asking $35 shipped CONUS, Outside the US, pays the extra shipping. 

  If you're interested, contact me:

          w ZERO ih at arrl dot net


I prefer PayPal.


Mike

  W0IH at arrl dot net



 

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