Phil Lacefield Jr. | 1 Nov 04:23 2011

Inexpensive T5 tuning available



No connection, just passing this along from the TSSC email list...

--- In tristatesaabclub-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org, "kevin" <suprakkmp <at> ...> wrote:
>
> To all T5 owners, I have a friend in Texas that will reflash your T5 ecu up to stage 3 for $40 plus header pins... Header pins on Amazon are cheap:http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Header-2-54mm-40Pin/dp/B005E5LI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318545701&sr=8-1

> He can customize the tune within the parameters of the T5 Suite Stage programming. Mine is a modified stage 2, 21 pounds of boost on my Aero, rev limit raised to 6500 and no speed limiter...

> If your chip is too old to accept a flash, he does have access to new chips, may take a while longer and a few extra bucks, but well worth it.

> SF Cable, Pin Header 2.54mm 40Pin
www.amazon.com
> Connector Type Pin Header Strip These 2*40 pin headers can be snapped or cut to any length Number of Pin 80 Pitch 2.54mm Gender Male
>


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Phil Lacefield Jr. | 1 Nov 08:20 2011

The spiritual successor to the C900T



http://blog.caranddriver.com/hyundai-confirms-turbo-veloster-and-more-powerful-genesis-coupe-for-detroit-auto-show/

This, right here, is what Saab SHOULD have been making all along, and not wasting their time on high-dollar luxobarges. Turbo four and a hatch...I really want to drive one now, just because!

Phil




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Eric Cohen | 1 Nov 13:59 2011
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Re: The spiritual successor to the C900T



If that veloster comes out in a five door that'll be one to look at. -eric

On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 3:20 AM, Phil Lacefield Jr. <phil-LCrXqBkB8xb2eFz/2MeuCQ@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

http://blog.caranddriver.com/hyundai-confirms-turbo-veloster-and-more-powerful-genesis-coupe-for-detroit-auto-show/


This, right here, is what Saab SHOULD have been making all along, and not wasting their time on high-dollar luxobarges. Turbo four and a hatch...I really want to drive one now, just because!

Phil





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Perry Ellington | 1 Nov 14:14 2011
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Re: The spiritual successor to the C900T



well its close on one side anyway.  three doors plus a hatch is pretty close.  Seen a few running around here and like the looks.

Reviews say its not a "drivers car" but a good all around car anyway.  Im with Phil and holding out for the Turbo before taking a look.
Perry


On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Eric Cohen <ecohen-P1JKnMZDrucAvxtiuMwx3w@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

If that veloster comes out in a five door that'll be one to look at. -eric



On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 3:20 AM, Phil Lacefield Jr. <phil-LCrXqBkB8xb2eFz/2MeuCQ@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

http://blog.caranddriver.com/hyundai-confirms-turbo-veloster-and-more-powerful-genesis-coupe-for-detroit-auto-show/


This, right here, is what Saab SHOULD have been making all along, and not wasting their time on high-dollar luxobarges. Turbo four and a hatch...I really want to drive one now, just because!

Phil






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Joshua Chaitin-Pollak | 1 Nov 14:12 2011

Re: The spiritual successor to the C900T




On Nov 1, 2011, at 8:59 PM, Eric Cohen wrote:



If that veloster comes out in a five door that'll be one to look at. -eric

I like the 3 door (or is it a 4 door?) and the Genesis too.. Too bad the turbo is a 2013 model.


On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 3:20 AM, Phil Lacefield Jr. <phil-LCrXqBkB8xb2eFz/2MeuCQ@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

http://blog.caranddrive r.com/hyundai-confirms-turbo-veloster-and-more-powerful-genesis-coupe-for-detroit-auto-show/


This, right here, is what Saab SHOULD have been making all along, and not wasting their time on high-dollar luxobarges. Turbo four and a hatch...I really want to drive one now, just because!

Phil









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Ashcraft engine Donney transmission

OK, time to cull the herd. If you ever wanted a Jack Ashcraft SuperSport engine and/or a Tom Donney rebuilt
transmission this is your opportunity.

As painful as it is to admit, at 73 I'm never going to get the '68 96 rebuilt. So I'm offering the Ashcroft
engine and the Donney tranny. 

The engine was one of two I shipped Ashcraft and I assume it was the better one of the two. He gave it a serial
number of 150066 so I gather it was a 1500 block. The rebuild included a new clutch and pressure plate; a
Webber carb and a Pertronix ignition. It cost me $3,300 and I'll let it go for $1,600, or $2,000 if you want
the tranny too.

I'm asking $600 for the tranny alone, or $2,000 with the engine.

Wait, there's more. For an additional $2,000 I'll throw in a 1968 96 V4 with a passel of body parts - some as is
and some repaired by a pretty good body man. The repaired body parts have been sprayed Saab white.

All plus shipping. Email me for additional information and pictures.

galanti 

------------------------------------

Eric Cohen | 2 Nov 15:55 2011
Picon

Re: Ashcraft engine Donney transmission



Professor,

That's bringin me down, I hope to be happily restoring cars at 73....assuming i make it that long it's when I'll finally have the time :(.

Sure wish you lived closer.

-Eric

On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 10:50 AM, paulgalanti-fOdFMYwuEsI@public.gmane.org <galanti-ee4meeAH724@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

OK, time to cull the herd. If you ever wanted a Jack Ashcraft SuperSport engine and/or a Tom Donney rebuilt transmission this is your opportunity.

As painful as it is to admit, at 73 I'm never going to get the '68 96 rebuilt. So I'm offering the Ashcroft engine and the Donney tranny.

The engine was one of two I shipped Ashcraft and I assume it was the better one of the two. He gave it a serial number of 150066 so I gather it was a 1500 block. The rebuild included a new clutch and pressure plate; a Webber carb and a Pertronix ignition. It cost me $3,300 and I'll let it go for $1,600, or $2,000 if you want the tranny too.

I'm asking $600 for the tranny alone, or $2,000 with the engine.

Wait, there's more. For an additional $2,000 I'll throw in a 1968 96 V4 with a passel of body parts - some as is and some repaired by a pretty good body man. The repaired body parts have been sprayed Saab white.

All plus shipping. Email me for additional information and pictures.

galanti




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David Finley | 2 Nov 17:29 2011
Picon

Advice on primer



I'm about to pull the engine/trans on my 1968 model 96, and after replacing the clutch will re-install the unit with a donor engine.  The donor engine will stay in the car for as long as it takes me to complete a rebuild on my existing engine, so I can drive the car while refurbishing the engine.  I want to take the opportunity of a vacant engine bay to prime (and perhaps color coat) the engine bay.   Redoing the engine bay will take me a while, since I'm not working full time on this project.  There's no rust to speak of, and the paint's pretty good, but there's a color change in the car's future and so I want to do a good prep job on the engine bay while it is open.  I'll sand the existing paint--not down to bare metal, since it's adhered fairly well for forty-plus years--and clean up some areas with welds using a soda blaster.  Now, some questions for the group:
1.  Is there a quality primer that is available in spray cans?  I think that I'll prep the engine bay in sections, and where there's exposed metal I don't want to leave it exposed for several months while I finish other sections, and it doesn't seem reasonable or cost-effective to mix up a batch of primer just to coat a couple of square feet of surface area--although I'd like input from the group here.  I'm learning about paint as I go, so if a good two-part epoxy primer is what folks would suggest, if primer even comes two part, then I will do the mixing and forget about spray cans.  I have heard that it may be advisable to pick the final paint type and manufacturer, so that I can use that manufacturer's primer, is advisable.  Is that right?  I'd like a final paint job to include color and clear coat, but beyond that I haven't yet decided.  
2.  I plan to remove the front fenders to get good access to the area where the fenders join the body, and want to replace the fender welting when I reinstall the fenders.  Do any of you have a source for the vinyl fender welting?  I'm assuming that welting is welting, and I don't need a Saab part that hasn't been produced in twenty years, right?  
Thanks for any help you can give me.  I'll be back to you with more questions about paint as I proceed.  Dave


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RE: Advice on primer



Primer does not protect against rust, only paint does that.  It is better than bare metal for sure, but don’t leave it too long.  “For a couple of months” should be fine with primer if you keep it dry, but you’ll have to go back before you paint, scuff it all up and prime the whole thing at once for best adhesion with the paint.  No big deal, that’s what I did too...working part by part on the weekends.

 

Also, the longer the primer is on there, the greater chance it will get contaminated by something that will ruin the paint adhesion, dirt, silicones, oils, etc.  So if you don’t paint right away, you’ll have to start over sanding and priming before you paint anyways.

 

I would advise following the paint manufacturers recommendation for primer.  If somebody has some direct experience to the contrary, I’ll yield to their superior knowledge.  I used two part epoxy, although for small areas I used rustoleum from a can just to keep the surface rust off of it...then later I’d sand it down (not to bare metal usually) and epoxy it when I did a larger area.  I didn’t have any problems with that...

 

I assume you are matching the color of the engine bay to the car?  Be advised that sometimes different batches of paint don’t *quite* match, but it probably doesn’t matter in the engine bay. 

 

That’s my limited, one car, experience at any rate.

 

Greg Diderich

From: vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org [mailto:vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org] On Behalf Of David Finley
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 11:30 AM
To: vsaab
Subject: [vSAAB] Advice on primer

 

 

I'm about to pull the engine/trans on my 1968 model 96, and after replacing the clutch will re-install the unit with a donor engine.  The donor engine will stay in the car for as long as it takes me to complete a rebuild on my existing engine, so I can drive the car while refurbishing the engine.   I want to take the opportunity of a vacant engine bay to prime (and perhaps color coat) the engine bay.   Redoing the engine bay will take me a while, since I'm not working full time on this project.  There's no rust to speak of, and the paint's pretty good, but there's a color change in the car's future and so I want to do a good prep job on the engine bay while it is open.  I'll sand the existing paint--not down to bare metal, since it's adhered fairly well for forty-plus years--and clean up some areas with welds using a soda blaster.  Now, some questions for the group:

1.  Is there a quality primer that is available in spray cans?  I think that I'll prep the engine bay in sections, and where there's exposed metal I do n't want to leave it exposed for several months while I finish other sections, and it doesn't seem reasonable or cost-effective to mix up a batch of primer just to coat a couple of square feet of surface area--although I'd like input from the group here.  I'm learning about paint as I go, so if a good two-part epoxy primer is what folks would suggest, if primer even comes two part, then I will do the mixing and forget about spray cans.  I have heard that it may be advisable to pick the final paint type and manufacturer, so that I can use that manufacturer's primer, is advisable.  Is that right?  I'd like a final paint job to include color and clear coat, but beyond that I haven't yet decided.  

2.  I plan to remove the front fenders to get good access to the area where the fenders join the body, and want to replace the fender welting when I reinstall the fenders.  Do any of you have a source for the vinyl fender welting?  I'm assuming that welting is welting, and I don't need a Saab part that hasn't been produced in twenty years, right?  

Thanks for any help you can give me.  I'll be back to you with more questions about paint as I proceed.  Dave



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Dietzdrummer | 2 Nov 18:22 2011
Picon

Re: Advice on primer



I would look at using Por-15 on any bare metal, and any seams and welds.   It is a rust preventative used on many auto restorations.
http://www.por15.com/       I have used it in both auto restoration and industrial applications, such as rusty support columns.  Can be top coated, and should be if exposed to sunlight, if not, don't worry.    Great stuff, It is a brush on but goes on like water.      DONT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN......TAKES DAYS TO WEAR OFF.     No solvent will cut it.    
David Dietz 
dietzdrummer-YDxpq3io04c@public.gmane.org


-----Original Message-----
From: Diderich, Greg S. (JSC-EC6)[Jacobs Technology] (JSC-EC6)[Jacobs Technology] <greg.s.diderich-NSQ8wuThN14@public.gmane.org>
To: vSAAB <vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org>
Sent: Wed, Nov 2, 2011 9:02 am
Subject: RE: [vSAAB] Advice on primer

 
Primer does not protect against rust, only paint does that.  It is better than bare metal for sure, but don’t leave it too long.  “For a couple of months” should be fine with primer if you keep it dry, but you’ll have to go back before you paint, scuff it all up and prime the whole thing at once for best adhesion with the paint.  No big deal, that’s what I did too...working part by part on the weekends.
 
Also, the longer the primer is on there, the greater chance it will get contaminated by something that will ruin the paint adhesion, dirt, silicones, oils, etc.  So if you don’t paint right away, you’ll have to start over sanding and priming be fore you paint anyways.
 
I would advise following the paint manufacturers recommendation for primer.  If somebody has some direct experience to the contrary, I’ll yield to their superior knowledge.  I used two part epoxy, although for small areas I used rustoleum from a can just to keep the surface rust off of it...then later I’d sand it down (not to bare metal usually) and epoxy it when I did a larger area.  I didn’t have any problems with that...
 
I assume you are matching the color of the engine bay to the car?  Be advised that sometimes different batches of paint don’t *quite* ma tch, but it probably doesn’t matter in the engine bay. 
 
That’s my limited, one car, experience at any rate.
 
Greg Diderich

From: vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org [mailto:vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org] On Behalf Of David Finley
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 11:30 AM
To: vsaab
Subject: [vSAAB] Advice on primer
 
 
I'm about to pull the engine/trans on my 1968 model 96, and after replacing the clutch will re-install the unit with a donor engine.  The donor engine will stay in the car for as long as it takes me to complete a rebuild on my existing engine, so I can drive the car while refurbishing the engine.  I want to take the opportunity of a vacant engine bay to prime (and perhaps color coat) the engine bay.   Redoing the engine bay will take me a while, since I'm not working full time on this project.  There's no rust to speak of, and the paint's pretty good, but there's a color change in the car's future and so I want to do a good prep job on the engine bay while it is open.  I'll sand the existing paint--not down to bare metal, since it's adhered fairly well for forty-plus years--and clean up some areas with welds using a soda blaster.  Now, some questions for the group:
1.  Is there a quality primer that is available in spray cans?  I think that I'll prep the engine bay in sections, and where there's exposed metal I don't want to leave it exposed for several months while I finish other sections, and it doesn't seem reasonable or cost-effective to mix up a batch of primer just to coat a couple of square feet of surface area--although I'd like input from the group here.  I'm learning about paint as I go, so if a good two-part epoxy primer is what folks would suggest, if primer even comes two part, then I will do the mixing and forget about spray cans.  I have heard that it may be advisable to pick the final paint type and manufacturer, so that I can use that manufacturer's primer, is advisable.  Is that right?  I'd like a final paint job to include color and clear coat, but beyond that I haven't yet decided.  
2.  I plan to remove the front fenders to get good access to the area where the fenders join the body, and want to replace the fender welting when I reinstall the fenders.  Do any of you have a source for the vinyl fender welting?  I'm assuming that welting is welting, and I don't need a Saab part that hasn't been produced in twenty years, right?  
Thanks for any help you can give me.  I'll be back to you with more questions about paint as I proceed.  Dave
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