Andy Peterson | 1 Dec 2010 03:04
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Re: torque question

On 11/30/2010 12:45 PM, Lester wrote:
> Hah! Nope, just put a racing de-tuned 1380 in the Bugeye so it's good..
> heh. No , this is for the E-Type 4.2. The cylinder head is supposed to
> be painted gold and mine isn't and it bugs me. To paint it all of the
> top cylinder head chrome nuts have to come off, the silver paint
> stripped off, a little chemical prep maybe then gold paint.

Is this something like _only_ an early open-deck V-4 should be painted 
Ford red? Late open Deck should be silver and early closed-deck 1500s 
should be Ford Blue?

Andy in PDX OR

------------------------------------

Lester | 1 Dec 2010 04:36
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Re: torque question

Kinda, Series 1 E-Types have the cylinder head valley painted gold.  After that it goes to silver..

Lester

On Nov 30, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Andy Peterson wrote:

> On 11/30/2010 12:45 PM, Lester wrote:
>> Hah! Nope, just put a racing de-tuned 1380 in the Bugeye so it's good..
>> heh. No , this is for the E-Type 4.2. The cylinder head is supposed to
>> be painted gold and mine isn't and it bugs me. To paint it all of the
>> top cylinder head chrome nuts have to come off, the silver paint
>> stripped off, a little chemical prep maybe then gold paint.
> 
> Is this something like _only_ an early open-deck V-4 should be painted 
> Ford red? Late open Deck should be silver and early closed-deck 1500s 
> should be Ford Blue?
> 
> Andy in PDX OR
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------------

(Continue reading)

Andy Peterson | 1 Dec 2010 11:22
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Re: torque question

Maybe you could find some bolts of the same thread (which _might_ be 
difficult on an old British engine) and length that could be used 
temporarily to make sure the head doesn't move. They don't have to be 
torqued up to specs, just enough to put some tension on and keep the 
head from moving. Then refinish the head, install some of the original 
bolts, remove the "holders" and install the rest of the original bolts. 
Doesn't mater if you get paint on the holders.

Andy in PDX OR

On 11/30/2010 6:06 AM, Stefan Vapaa wrote:
> If you can truly not disturb the head, then theoretically nothing.
>
> I'd be awful afraid of making a mess of it.  I'd probably remove one
> bolt at a time.
>
> On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 9:03 AM, Lester<oldsaabguy@...>  wrote:
>> hmm.. so along that line of thinking, what happens if you undo all the
>> headbolts, remove them without disturbing the head.  Yes, I have a
>> reason to do this.

------------------------------------

charles christ | 1 Dec 2010 12:06
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Re: torque question




and you are going to polish the nifty "D" shaped washers under the head stud nuts as well as the copper sealing washers under the cam cover nuts as well?   you do have the two engine lift hoops on the top end as well?  this is the prime time to buff the two cam covers too..... now lemmie see , how would i know this.......and of course you are polishing the breather assembly and it's retainers on the front of the head?   roflmao!   and it will never ever leak again....
to be honest lester , i seriously think this is possible considering the size and weight of that top end assembly and it's resting on the block on the studs if you are dead serious about it being able to not be disturbed in any fashion!   if you need to replace the head gasket you are looking at a huge "pita" removing the upper timing chain without screwing up the lower timing chain's tensioner.    that means removal of the pan to get the lower two timing cover bolts out to get acess to the tensioner for the lower timing chain you know? disassembly to almost a short block is almost impossible in the 3.8L or 4.2L without engine removal from the car.  i know the "saloon" has a removable front crossmember to allow the pan's removal in chassis.   i do not remember if the e-type has the same removable front crossmember as well.    and that crossmember has the entire front suspension and steering attatched to it!   so brake hose detatchment as well as steering column detatchment is included in the disassembly of that procedure too.   looking at some real serious fun if the head gasket looses it's  seal. 
 
well we are in the middle of a very high wind rain storm here right now and i must go and get my school bus out of it's garage and warm it up for my morning run.   driving rain in high winds (forcasted as high as up to around 50mph) in a school bus should be fun....i start my morning run around 6:30am.
 
let me know how the repaint job ends up on the jag.    it's a good thing i've never done that before.......LOL! 
 
chuck
93F  #251       
From: Lester <oldsaabguy-Wuw85uim5zDR7s880joybQ@public.gmane.org>
To: vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org
Sent: Tue, November 30, 2010 3:45:55 PM
Subject: Re: [vSAAB] torque question

 

Hah!  Nope, just put a racing de-tuned 1380 in the Bugeye so it's good.. heh.  No , this is for the E-Type 4.2.  The cylinder head is supposed to be painted gold and mine isn't and it bugs me.  To paint it all of the top cylinder head chrome nuts have to come off, the silver paint stripped off, a little chemical prep maybe then gold paint.


Lester





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Lester | 1 Dec 2010 15:06
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Re: torque question



See interlined..
On Dec 1, 2010, at 5:06 AM, charles christ wrote:

and you are going to polish the nifty "D" shaped washers under the head stud nuts

Yup...

as well as the copper sealing washers under the cam cover nuts as well?

Already done..

   you do have the two engine lift hoops on the top end as well?
pan>

Well sure..

  this is the prime time to buff the two cam covers too.....

Already done...

now lemmie see , how would i know this.......and of course you are polishing the breather assembly and it's retainers on the front of the head?  

Already done as well..  and I've replated almost everything else.

roflmao!   and it will never ever leak again....
to be honest lester , i seriously think this is possible considering the size and weight of that top end assembly and it's resting on the block on the studs if you are dead serious about it being able to not be disturbed in any fashion!   if you need to replace the head gasket you are looking at a huge "pita" removing the upper timing chain without screwing up the lower timing chain's tensioner.    that means removal of the pan to get the lower two timing cover bolts out to get acess to the tensioner for the lower timing chain you know? disassembly to almost a short block is almost impossible in the 3.8L or 4.2L without engine removal from the car.  i know the "saloon" has a removable front crossmember to allow the pan's removal in chassis.   i do not remember if the e-type has the same removable front crossmember as well.   

Nope, I would have to remove the bonnet and work through the "picture frame"..

and that crossmember has the entire front suspension and steering attatched to it!   so brake hose detatchment as well as steering column detatchment is included in the disassembly of that procedure too.   looking at some real serious fun if the head gasket looses it's  seal. 
e>

Man, I have already decided that if there is a problem it will be engine rebuild time, that and the tranny are the only items that I haven't gone through yet.
 
well we are in the middle of a very high wind rain storm here right now and i must go and get my school bus out of it's garage and warm it up for my morning run.   driving rain in high winds (forcasted as high as up to around 50mph) in a school bus should be fun....i start my morning run around 6:30am.
 
let me know how the repaint job ends up on the jag.    it's a good thing i've never done that before.......LOL! 

Tell me about it man..

 
chuck
93F  #251        
From: Lester <oldsaabguy-Wuw85uim5zDR7s880joybQ@public.gmane.org>
To: vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org
Sent: Tue, November 30, 2010 3:45:55 PM
Subject: Re: [vSAAB] torque question

Hah!  Nope, just put a racing de-tuned 1380 in the Bugeye so it's good.. heh.  No , this is for the E-Type 4.2.  The cylinder head is supposed to be painted gold and mine isn't and it bugs me.  To paint it all of the top cylinder head chrome nuts have to come off, the silver paint stripped off, a little chemical prep maybe then gold paint.


Lester





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Eric P | 1 Dec 2010 17:07
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New Old Saab Roadster



I'm not sure if this has been shared in the past or if anyone has seen it but I thought I'd share:

http://playsam.netrix.se/shop/default.aspx?tillsida=dept&groupid=49610&lng=ENG&dirinlogg=J&country_pricelist=gb

Enjoy!

-Eric



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Tom Nelson | 1 Dec 2010 17:22

Re: New Old Saab Roadster



Eric...... looks like the base model for $385 USD is out of stock so you'll need to go with the Gold plated/Leather trimmed model for $1284 USD........ plus extra for the Nardi wheel and shipping.......... pretty soon it will add up to real money....
You could even get a fair condition real 900T "roadster" for the same money.... ;-))

-/_   _/-   
  -/_/-      Tom
 <. .>
    *  elkmtnman




On Dec 1, 2010, at 9:07 AM, Eric P wrote:

 

I'm not sure if this has been shared in the past or if anyone has seen it but I thought I'd share:

http://playsam.netrix.se/shop/default.aspx?tillsida=dept&groupid=49610&lng=ENG&dirinlogg=J&country_pricelist=gb

Enjoy!

-Eric





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Jonathan Dennis | 1 Dec 2010 17:41
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Re: New Old Saab Roadster



I was lucky enough to find one of the "base models" used on Craigslist for $60 recently, it was on the wrong coast so Phil Lacefield assisted in picking it up and shipping it for me. It's for my daughter who is due to be born on December 10. It's currently on display on top of a cabinet in my office at work:

http://tinyurl.com/2dfv9fu

Gotta get them started on Saabs early.

-Jon

On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 11:22 AM, Tom Nelson <tom10-+mvbHnN81+IJGwgDXS7ZQA@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

Eric...... looks like the base model for $385 USD is out of stock so you'll need to go with the Gold plated/Leather trimmed model for $1284 USD........ plus extra for the Nardi wheel and shipping.......... pretty soon it will add up to real money....

You could even get a fair condition real 900T "roadster" for the same money.... ;-))

-/_   _/-   
  -/_/-      Tom
 <. .>
    *  elkmtnman




On Dec 1, 2010, at 9:07 AM, Eric P wrote:

 

I'm not sure if this has been shared in the past or if anyone has seen it but I thought I'd share:

http://playsam.netrix.se/shop/default.aspx?tillsida=dept&groupid=49610&lng=ENG&dirinlogg=J&country_pricelist=gb

Enjoy!

-Eric






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Thor Carlson | 1 Dec 2010 17:56
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Re: New Old Saab Roadster



On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 11:22 AM, Tom Nelson <tom10-+mvbHnN81+LGM35dfN+Kfw@public.gmane.orgt> wrote:
You could even get a fair condition real 900T "roadster" for the same money.... ;-))


Yes, but much harder to drive around the living room!

 


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SAABNUT | 1 Dec 2010 18:00
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Re: New Old Saab Roadster



Jealous!

On Dec 1, 2010, at 11:41 AM, Jonathan Dennis wrote:

 

I was lucky enough to find one of the "base models" used on Craigslist for $60 recently, it was on the wrong coast so Phil Lacefield assisted in picking it up and shipping it for me. It's for my daughter who is due to be born on December 10. It's currently on display on top of a cabinet in my office at work:

http://tinyurl.com/2dfv9fu

Gotta get them started on Saabs early.

-Jon

On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 11:22 AM, Tom Nelson <to m10-+mvbHnN81+IJGwgDXS7ZQA@public.gmane.org> wrote:
 

Eric...... looks like the base model for $385 USD is out of stock so you'll need to go with the Gold plated/Leather trimmed model for $1284 USD........ plus extra for the Nardi wheel and shipping.......... pretty soon it will add up to real money....

You could even get a fair condition real 900T "roadster" for the same money.... ;-))

-/_   _/-   
  -/_/-      Tom
 <. .>
    *  elkmtnman




On Dec 1, 2010, at 9:07 AM, Eric P wrote:

 

I'm not sure if this has been shared in the past or if anyone has seen it but I thought I'd share:

http://playsam.netrix.se/shop/default.aspx?tillsida=dept&groupid=49610&lng=ENG&dirinlogg=J&country_pricelist=gb

Enjoy!

-Eric







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