Re: I am new here.
Thanks for the welcome.
Hopefully I don't wear that welcome out due to my proficiency at filling up everyone's screens with words.
Sometimes my writing isn't as good as I'd like it to be; like when I seemed to suggest there had already been
valve seats installed in my heads.
The machine shop stopped after disassembling them and I was told they couldn't find the 2.8 liter V6 valves
anymore. Is there a source someone knows of?
1971 Saab 96
San Francisco area
--- In vSAAB@..., Andy Peterson <adpete <at> ...> wrote:
> Welcome to the list, Xenon. Sounds as though you've got a lot of
> experience with these cars and have ideas to offer others. I've been
> driving and working on SAABs for over 40 years. My driver right now is a
> '79 900 turbo, and there's nothing in my stable newer than 1980.
> I had a customer's car years ago that was blowing water out the radiator
> bottle, and I put a cooling system pressure tester on it, and cranked
> the engine over. The result was that the needle on the radiator tester
> was pegged.
> I hadn't experienced that pipe rusting shut, but can see how it could. I
> think it is a bypass for when the thermostat is closed.
> I don't know what seats your machine shop put in, but the usual
> replacement has been valves for the Capri 2.6L V-6. They're slightly
> bigger than the original valves.
> I had the inlet tube on my OEM Solex on my '67 V-4 come out, resulting
> in a small fire on the top of the engine. I also have a customer who has
> a Weber on his one-owner '72 96 that had the same problem. I used a glue
> that won't dissolve in fuel, to put it back in. It was wired on, but was
> Andy in PDX OR
> On 10/27/2010 10:23 AM, xherrmann wrote:
> > I am new to this forum but I am not new to wrenching on old Saabs.
> > I've been the sole mechanic on my 1971 Saab 96 for 20 years, and also
> > work on a few others of similar vintage.
> > I have gotten pretty deep into my car over the years including
> > replacing the balance shaft and cam shaft bearings and rebuilding the
> > transmission.
> > Recently I had an overheating problem and in addition to the
> > temperature gauge jumping around, much of the coolant was being
> > periodically forced out of the reservoir tank. I also noticed coolant
> > leaking out from the base of the left head near the stabilizer mount
> > and discovered the head bolt was loose; in fact the top couple inches
> > of the bolt was no longer connected to the part threaded into the
> > block.
> > I figured that I had a broken head gasket and was going to have to
> > replace it, but since I now lack a garage in which to work I decided
> > to try a less ambitious course: so with great hope in my heart - and
> > the fair amount of skill with tools I've built up over the years - I
> > drilled a hole in the end of broken bolt and removed it using a
> > fluted extractor. I replaced the bolt with a spare I had and the leak
> > stopped but sadly the overheating and coolant blowout continued and
> > in the absence of an exhaust detection kit for the radiator I decided
> > I had a broken head gasket.
> > But... in the process of doing a shade-tree head gasket repair I
> > noticed a bunch of rusty water come out of a coolant tube as I
> > inverted it into a box. (I call this a bypass tube though perhaps it
> > is properly called something else: it is what leads from the
> > thermostat housing past the alternator back to the water pump.
> > Naturally it was completely clogged and digging all the junk out of
> > the part of the tube which is formed inwardly at the bend and where
> > the internal diameter is reduced has solved the overheating problem.
> > I have this question though: my local machine shop disassembled the
> > spare heads I had to rework them and put in hardened seats and
> > guides, but the fellow couldn't find new valves. Are these available
> > anywhere? (I spent a bit of time searching this site and found a
> > reference to using the good valves from two engines, so I think I
> > know the answer.)
> > I still have the FoMoCo 1250 carb which was badly warped but I filed
> > the two halves carefully together. When I first worked on the car I
> > scoffed at the baling wire tying the fuel inlet hose clamp to the
> > body of this carb - and *removed* *it* - but few months later learned
> > how the brass tube is simply press-fit into the casting and can pop
> > out at any time. I cursed myself and replaced the wire. Recently I
> > earned some money resurrecting a '72 model 95 which had burned up
> > because its mechanic didn't know of that issue. (The alternator belt
> > had been overtightened as well.)