Eric P | 1 May 07:30 2010
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MSS Exhaust Installed...mostly

Okay, so I've spent the past couple of nights heading out to the garage at 10pm...making a mess, cleaning it
up and getting very little work done.  I've finally got the exhaust on the car.  I left everything loose and
once I had everything aligned as best as possible, I started tightening up all of the nuts.  In doing so, I
noted a couple of things:

1) Some of the clearances are very tight!  Has anyone else found this as well?  It doesn't seem to move much but
it's also not as immovablea as the OE system.

2) The bottom header nut on the passenger side of the car is almost impossible to tighten.  It took a while just
to get the system aligned well enough to even get the nut to spin since it kept binding on the pipe!  Now that
it's clear, there's virtually no way to get a wrench around it with any leverage.  I've tightened it up a bit -
it's not hanging off of the stud or anything - but the top nut is definitely further up on the stud than the
bottom one.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!!

-Eric

------------------------------------

john g collins | 1 May 10:25 2010
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Re: MSS Exhaust Installed...mostly

It's called an "extreme angle" open end wrench --mine is a Snap-on or
Mac, but I belive Craftsman has them also-- one end is  90 degrees to the
handle and the other is 45 degrees -- so you can use the open end from
the bottom with the wrench to the side (that make sense ???)--tighten the
lower one first and then do the final tighten from the top. OR, find 15mm
nuts for the studs.
[RAY will attest to having trouble tightening that lower/right side nut
-- (that was a task he let me finish !!)]
john

On Sat, 01 May 2010 05:30:57 -0000 "Eric P" <ericprzy@...> writes:
> Okay, so I've spent the past couple of nights heading out to the 
> garage at 10pm...making a mess, cleaning it up and getting very 
> little work done.  I've finally got the exhaust on the car.  I left 
> everything loose and once I had everything aligned as best as 
> possible, I started tightening up all of the nuts.  In doing so, I 
> noted a couple of things:
> 
> 1) Some of the clearances are very tight!  Has anyone else found 
> this as well?  It doesn't seem to move much but it's also not as 
> immovablea as the OE system.
> 
> 2) The bottom header nut on the passenger side of the car is almost 
> impossible to tighten.  It took a while just to get the system 
> aligned well enough to even get the nut to spin since it kept 
> binding on the pipe!  Now that it's clear, there's virtually no way 
> to get a wrench around it with any leverage.  I've tightened it up a 
> bit - it's not hanging off of the stud or anything - but the top nut 
> is definitely further up on the stud than the bottom one.  Any 
> suggestions?
(Continue reading)

Andy Peterson | 1 May 11:40 2010
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Re: MSS Exhaust Installed...mostly

Eric P wrote:
> Okay, so I've spent the past couple of nights heading out to the
> garage at 10pm...making a mess, cleaning it up and getting very
> little work done.  I've finally got the exhaust on the car.  I left
> everything loose and once I had everything aligned as best as
> possible, I started tightening up all of the nuts.  In doing so, I
> noted a couple of things:
> 
> 1) Some of the clearances are very tight!  Has anyone else found this
> as well?  It doesn't seem to move much but it's also not as
> immovablea as the OE system.
> 
> 2) The bottom header nut on the passenger side of the car is almost
> impossible to tighten.  It took a while just to get the system
> aligned well enough to even get the nut to spin since it kept binding
> on the pipe!  Now that it's clear, there's virtually no way to get a
> wrench around it with any leverage.  I've tightened it up a bit -
> it's not hanging off of the stud or anything - but the top nut is
> definitely further up on the stud than the bottom one.  Any
> suggestions?

Bet you're using nuts with a 17mm hex. We had a discussion about this a 
while back. The original stock nuts were 15mm hex. Some people use a 
Allen screw in place of the inner stud and nut.

You might try loosening the outer nut a few turns, then try tightening 
the inner one. I've found that works sometimes. You need a combination 
wrench with the open end on the side, instead of the end. I found some 
at Harbor Freight a while back.

(Continue reading)

Jonathan Hopper | 1 May 12:48 2010

Re: MSS Exhaust Installed...mostly



I raised this recently, trying to fit a Highgate system.

I did not find a source for the 15mm nuts, but I did get a pack of long 17mm M10 nuts, that are much easier to tighten - I just used a normal open ended spanner.

They came mail order from Farnell - 1378390

They still rub on the pipes but it went together well.

I did remove the alternator support bracket, and the water pipe to the heater, to give some more room.  I thought I would need to remove the oil filter too, but the long nut meant I didnt need to be square-on to the nut with the spanner (wrench).

I haven't completed the system, I am struggling with getting the back boxes in place. Access / orientation is tricky - and I need to fabricate hangers.  I am still not sure if the boxes are compatible with retaining the mud flap supports... I tell myself they should be, but they dont look it...

I needed 5" extension pipes which have just arrived, as the 95 is longer than the 96...  Before I continue I will pressure wash under the rear wheel arches... 

I am finding it a larger mini-project than I expected....

But I started the car with just the front boxes and the sound is really something...

Jonathan
Ipswich
UK






On 1 May 2010 10:40, Andy Peterson <adpete <at> xprt.net> wrote:
 

Eric P wrote:
> Okay, so I've spent the past couple of nights heading out to the
> garage at 10pm...making a mess, cleaning it up and getting very
> little work done. I've finally got the exhaust on the car. I left
> everything loose and once I had everything aligned as best as
> possible, I started tightening up all of the nuts. In doing so, I
> noted a couple of things:
>
> 1) Some of the clearances are very tight! Has anyone else found this
> as well? It doesn't seem to move much but it's also not as
> immovablea as the OE system.
>
> 2) The bottom header nut on the passenger side of the car is almost
> impossible to tighten. It took a while just to get the system
> aligned well enough to even get the nut to spin since it kept binding
> on the pipe! Now that it's clear, there's virtually no way to get a
> wrench around it with any leverage. I've tightened it up a bit -
> it's not hanging off of the stud or anything - but the top nut is
> definitely further up on the stud than the bottom one. Any
> suggestions?

Bet you're using nuts with a 17mm hex. We had a discussion about this a
while back. The original stock nuts were 15mm hex. Some people use a
Allen screw in place of the inner stud and nut.

You might try loosening the outer nut a few turns, then try tightening
the inner one. I've found that works sometimes. You need a combination
wrench with the open end on the side, instead of the end. I found some
at Harbor Freight a while back.

Andy in PDX OR




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Stefan Vapaa | 1 May 14:44 2010

Re: MSS Exhaust Installed...mostly



What I do...
The hardest nuts (the ones on the underside of the headers) I do first.  I get them to where I want them, without having yet touched the upper nuts.
Then, once the lowers are close, I tighten the upper ones.

This means that the lower ones are easy to turn (since the system is still loose-ish) and then get "levered" tight by the upper nuts which are easy to reach and tighten.

Works for me.

On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 1:30 AM, Eric P <ericprzy-/E1597aS9LQAvxtiuMwx3w@public.gmane.org> wrote:
Okay, so I've spent the past couple of nights heading out to the garage at 10pm...making a mess, cleaning it up and getting very little work done.  I've finally got the exhaust on the car.  I left everything loose and once I had everything aligned as best as possible, I started tightening up all of the nuts.  In doing so, I noted a couple of things:

1) Some of the clearances are very tight!  Has anyone else found this as well?  It doesn't seem to move much but it's also not as immovablea as the OE system.

2) The bottom header nut on the passenger side of the car is almost impossible to tighten.  It took a while just to get the system aligned well enough to even get the nut to spin since it kept binding on the pipe!  Now that it's clear, there's virtually no way to get a wrench around it with any leverage.  I've tightened it up a bit - it's not hanging off of the stud or anything - but the top nut is definitely further up on the stud than the bottom one.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!!

-Eric



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--
-STEFAN
http://www.at-speed.com
http://photos.at-speed.com
VSCCA comp #374
VRG comp #97


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William 'Chip' Lamb | 1 May 15:50 2010

FS rare manuals STILL AVAILABLE

Cheap as chips folks - if you don't think this pile is worth it, make 
a reasonable offer and I might accept.

--

- 95/96 V4 parts book - not reproduced, decent shape
- 95/96 V4 service manual, somewhat tatty
- additional large binder of Sonett info, a tattered Haynes manual

Job lot. $75 shipped in the ConUS. Paypal chip@...
_________________________________
Cheers-

William "Chip" Lamb
West of Sweden SAAB
Richmond, VA.
http://www.wmsbrg.com/sweden/
__________________________________

------------------------------------

Bill Trench | 1 May 16:10 2010
Picon

Re: MSS Exhaust Installed...mostly

Ditto.

Stefan Vapaa wrote:
>
>
> What I do...
> The hardest nuts (the ones on the underside of the headers) I do 
> first.  I get them to where I want them, without having yet touched 
> the upper nuts.
> Then, once the lowers are close, I tighten the upper ones.
>
> This means that the lower ones are easy to turn (since the system is 
> still loose-ish) and then get "levered" tight by the upper nuts which 
> are easy to reach and tighten.
>
> Works for me.
>

------------------------------------

krissmotors | 1 May 16:37 2010

Re: Looking for a windshield for a '74 Sonett

I've got one - $50 - if you can pick up in Boston.  These are difficult to ship although this is already crated up
in a Saab shipping box.  Came out of a 1969 Sonett V4, but will fit all Sonett IIIs (only difference is that
there is no tint on glass).

------------------------------------

talikndr | 1 May 18:58 2010
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Re: Re: Looking for a windshield for a '74 Sonett



I will buy it can u send me your# mine 4088585011

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From: "krissmotors" <eric-crlA0cqw2sIP7C3xziwOQw@public.gmane.org>
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 14:37:34 -0000
To: <vSAAB-hHKSG33TihhbjbujkaE4pw@public.gmane.org>
Subject: [vSAAB] Re: Looking for a windshield for a '74 Sonett

 

I've got one - $50 - if you can pick up in Boston. These are difficult to ship although this is already crated up in a Saab shipping box. Came out of a 1969 Sonett V4, but will fit all Sonett IIIs (only difference is that there is no tint on glass).



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Tom Nelson | 1 May 19:33 2010
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Weber float bowl plug ... broken



I have a "difficult" repair job on my Weber 40IDA3C tricarb setup installed on the 940cc stroker motor in the '67 model 96 vintage racer ... <http://www.motormeister.com/html/carb2.html

The float bowl drain plug (#64 in the picture) for one of the bowls broke off and I'm attempting to remove the threaded portion that is still stuck in the carb body. The threads on the plug are 7 mm and I have a new replacement plug from Pierce Manifolds. Problem is that with a #2 easyout inserted in a 7/64" dia drill hole in the brass plug...... got a good bite with the #2 but I'm afraid of breaking it off with the high torque. Next step would be to drill open the hole up to 5/32" dia for a #3 easyout, unless someone has a better idea. 

Hate to use heat on a carb with all the fuel .......

When I get to the drill size for a #3 easyout I'm at 4 mm dia hole so might start crumbling the brass 7 mm threads? 

I'm trying to avoid drilling all the way thru the plug to avoid brass drilling chips being allowed to enter the carb bowl. 

Anyhow, when I get the plug extracted I plan to run a 7 mm tap to clean out the threads, then run the elec fuel pump for awhile to refill the float bowl and flush any debris before I install the new plug.

Don't ask me how I broke the  existing drain plug.......;-(

-/_   _/-   
  -/_/-      Tom
 <. .>
    *  elkmtnman






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