Jonathan Hopper | 2 Feb 2009 18:04

BHP increase to a 1972 V4 96

I have fitted the following to my UK model 1972 96 (65 BHP) and need to tell the Insurance company how much BHP it will have increased the power by:

Weber 28/36 DCD (& airfilter)
Twin choke Manifold
Jetex sport exhaust

(They said they are only bothered if it is more than 10%)

Anyone have any data on this?

thanks

Jonathan

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Stefan Vapaa | 2 Feb 2009 18:26

Re: BHP increase to a 1972 V4 96

I'd suggest telling them it is less than 10%.  There is data to
suggest that this is likely...

According to factory specifications, when the 96 came fitted with a
twin choke Solex in 1977 it raised the HP from 65 to 68 (and improved
fuel mileage!).

The Jetex exhaust can be considered a stock replacement as it retains
the same number of mufflers (a primary muffler and a rear resonator).
The additional diameter (up to 2" from whatever is stock, 1.75"?) is
probably only going to make a difference of a HP or two unless the
heads have been ported.

On Mon, Feb 2, 2009 at 12:04 PM, Jonathan Hopper
<jonathanhopper@...> wrote:
> I have fitted the following to my UK model 1972 96 (65 BHP) and need to tell
> the Insurance company how much BHP it will have increased the power by:
>
> Weber 28/36 DCD (& airfilter)
> Twin choke Manifold
> Jetex sport exhaust
>
> (They said they are only bothered if it is more than 10%)
>
> Anyone have any data on this?
>
> thanks
>
> Jonathan
>
> 

--

-- 
-STEFAN
http://www.at-speed.com
http://photos.at-speed.com
VSCCA comp #374
VRG comp #97

------------------------------------

mleon | 3 Feb 2009 06:28
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Flywheel questions

All,
 
I am taking my flywheel to a machine shop soon and have a couple of questions.  What is the minimum thickness at which it is no longer usable, if it has been machined before?  What is correct the difference in the height between the surface the clutch disc presses against and surface to which the pressure plate is bolted?  Or, am I asking the wrong questions?
 
Thanks,
 
Michael

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Andy Peterson | 3 Feb 2009 09:26
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Re: BHP increase to a 1972 V4 96

Stefan Vapaa wrote:
> The Jetex exhaust can be considered a stock replacement as it retains
> the same number of mufflers (a primary muffler and a rear resonator).
> The additional diameter (up to 2" from whatever is stock, 1.75"?) is
> probably only going to make a difference of a HP or two unless the
> heads have been ported.

Two mufflers on the stock system? That front one is just an echo 
chamber/collector tube. There isn't any baffling in the tube to which 
the header pipes are connected. Those two cans that surround the joint 
don't do any muffling. I've had systems where the cans rusted out around 
the headers, and when you pull the pipe out and inspect it, the header 
passes through the can without any holes in it by which exhaust gets 
into the can and bounces around.

Andy in PDX OR

------------------------------------

Andy Peterson | 3 Feb 2009 09:29
Favicon

Re: BHP increase to a 1972 V4 96

Jonathan Hopper wrote:
> I have fitted the following to my UK model 1972 96 (65 BHP) and need to 
> tell the Insurance company how much BHP it will have increased the power by:
> 
> Weber 28/36 DCD (& airfilter)
> Twin choke Manifold
> Jetex sport exhaust
> 
> (They said they are only bothered if it is more than 10%)
> 
> Anyone have any data on this?

Considering that your old engine probably didn't have 65 bhp when you 
started this project, those parts should make quite an improvement.

Andy in PDX OR

------------------------------------

Lester | 3 Feb 2009 19:15
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Wheel truing stand..


Ok,  I am planning on getting a set of my Sonett wheels "prettied up"  
and it occurred to me that I should check to see which wheels are the  
straightest to start with which means building a jig to test runout  
etc. on SAAB steel wheels.. well, it would work on any 5 bolt wheel I  
guess but I digress..  has anyone done this before?  Is there anything  
more complicated than taking an upright and mounting it in a sturdy  
vise and putting a dial gauge to the wheel ala the factory manual?

Ok, it's not a truing stand but a wheel true check stand??

Thanks all,

Lester

------------------------------------

William 'Chip' Lamb | 3 Feb 2009 19:21

Re: Wheel truing stand..

More complex than you may think, what really ovals is the inside disc 
to the rim, tough to see without a high-speed spin.

At 01:15 PM 2/3/2009, you wrote:

>Ok,  I am planning on getting a set of my Sonett wheels "prettied up"
>and it occurred to me that I should check to see which wheels are the
>straightest to start with which means building a jig to test runout
>etc. on SAAB steel wheels.. well, it would work on any 5 bolt wheel I
>guess but I digress..  has anyone done this before?  Is there anything
>more complicated than taking an upright and mounting it in a sturdy
>vise and putting a dial gauge to the wheel ala the factory manual?
>
>Ok, it's not a truing stand but a wheel true check stand??
>
>Thanks all,
>
>Lester
>

_________________________________
Cheers-

William "Chip" Lamb
West of Sweden SAAB
Richmond, VA.
http://www.wmsbrg.com/sweden/
__________________________________

------------------------------------

Lester | 3 Feb 2009 19:36
Picon

Re: Wheel truing stand..

But that would be measured on the micrometer when one does the  
measurement of the inside lip (Tire off of course).  I recall the  
factory manual has two parameters to measure, runout and uhh..  
whatever the other one is called.  Measured at the lip below where the  
bead is held on the outside of the wheel and the other one measured on  
the inside of the wheel just above where the disc is attached.  The  
end result is that you get readings at 90 degrees to each other.

Lester

On Feb 3, 2009, at 12:21 PM, William 'Chip' Lamb wrote:

> More complex than you may think, what really ovals is the inside disc
> to the rim, tough to see without a high-speed spin.
>
> At 01:15 PM 2/3/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>> Ok,  I am planning on getting a set of my Sonett wheels "prettied up"
>> and it occurred to me that I should check to see which wheels are the
>> straightest to start with which means building a jig to test runout
>> etc. on SAAB steel wheels.. well, it would work on any 5 bolt wheel I
>> guess but I digress..  has anyone done this before?  Is there  
>> anything
>> more complicated than taking an upright and mounting it in a sturdy
>> vise and putting a dial gauge to the wheel ala the factory manual?
>>
>> Ok, it's not a truing stand but a wheel true check stand??
>>
>> Thanks all,
>>
>> Lester
>>
>
> _________________________________
> Cheers-
>
> William "Chip" Lamb
> West of Sweden SAAB
> Richmond, VA.
> http://www.wmsbrg.com/sweden/

------------------------------------

john g collins | 3 Feb 2009 19:44
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Favicon

Re: Flywheel questions

I've always used .660 inches for the "step" between the 2 surfaces-- I've heard anything from .650' to .670' from others, but .660' (or the metric equivalent) has worked for me for Many flywheels. at one point I seem to remember a machine shop that had a chart that actually listed the Saab spec.-- most have a chart, but don't always list the SAAB. check out the throw out bearing "ARM" for wear also, as this will effect how far the T.O. bearing pushes on the pressure plate.......... good luck....john
 
On Tue, 3 Feb 2009 00:28:40 EST mleon-YDxpq3io04c@public.gmane.org writes:
All,
 
I am taking my flywheel to a machine shop soon and have a couple of questions.  What is the minimum thickness at which it is no longer usable, if it has been machined before?  What is correct the difference in the height between the surface the clutch disc presses against and surface to which the pressure plate is bolted?  Or, am I asking the wrong questions?
 
Thanks,
 
Michael

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Lester | 3 Feb 2009 21:45
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Re: Wheel truing stand..

..ahem, where I wrote micrometer please insert dial gauge...

Lester

On Feb 3, 2009, at 12:36 PM, Lester wrote:

> But that would be measured on the micrometer when one does the
> measurement of the inside lip (Tire off of course).  I recall the
> factory manual has two parameters to measure, runout and uhh..
> whatever the other one is called.  Measured at the lip below where the
> bead is held on the outside of the wheel and the other one measured on
> the inside of the wheel just above where the disc is attached.  The
> end result is that you get readings at 90 degrees to each other.
>
> Lester
>
>
> On Feb 3, 2009, at 12:21 PM, William 'Chip' Lamb wrote:
>
>> More complex than you may think, what really ovals is the inside disc
>> to the rim, tough to see without a high-speed spin.
>>
>> At 01:15 PM 2/3/2009, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Ok,  I am planning on getting a set of my Sonett wheels "prettied  
>>> up"
>>> and it occurred to me that I should check to see which wheels are  
>>> the
>>> straightest to start with which means building a jig to test runout
>>> etc. on SAAB steel wheels.. well, it would work on any 5 bolt  
>>> wheel I
>>> guess but I digress..  has anyone done this before?  Is there
>>> anything
>>> more complicated than taking an upright and mounting it in a sturdy
>>> vise and putting a dial gauge to the wheel ala the factory manual?
>>>
>>> Ok, it's not a truing stand but a wheel true check stand??
>>>
>>> Thanks all,
>>>
>>> Lester
>>>
>>
>> _________________________________
>> Cheers-
>>
>> William "Chip" Lamb
>> West of Sweden SAAB
>> Richmond, VA.
>> http://www.wmsbrg.com/sweden/
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

------------------------------------


Gmane