Re: Weighty questions ?
Brian Rich <
brian@...>
2010-11-01 21:10:14 GMT
On 1 Nov 2010, at 08:39, ap4098 wrote:
> 2. Seeing the battery bank size is dictated by your current use and the alternator size is very likely to be
limited by its drive belt (unless you want to spend many £s or a poly-V belt conversion is readily
available) this question may be more academic than practical. I advocate doing a power audit and then
doing charging calculations so you get some idea of how long you need to run the engine for or how much
auxiliary charging you need. If you read the article in Canal Boat you will find a similar one on http://www.tb-training.co.uk/Poweraudit.htm.
Hermione has a power meter installed, which monitors the power consumption of the electrical system. I've
found this really helpful; It tells me that my fridge-freezer and 300W pure sine inverter that I use to run
the telly (about 4 hours running) takes about 30Ah during a 24 hour period. The fridge-freezer on it's own
takes about 20Ah. The telly is rated at 38W at 240v AC, and the fridge freezer takes 4 amps and I reckon it is
running about 25% duty cycle. If you do the numbers that T0ny suggests, the fridge-freezer would use about
24AH and the telly would use about 12Ah, which is pretty close to what the power meter says
It takes about an hour running my 70A alternator in the evening to recover the 30AH used, which gives out
around 28 amps when charging just above tickover.
I've got 2 x 100Ah batteries for the leisure system. At the moment, I don't think I need to increase it's size.
>
> 3. No idea - power audit says use launderettes
If you can find one - in these days of recession, they are a bit like hen's teeth.
The twin-tub that Mike suggests if probably the only way of using a combinations of hot water and low
electrical power consumption - all supplied by a 70A alternator. If you want to wash on-board without
large scale electrical systems, this seems to be the only way forward. Also, I suspect it is more
economical with water too.
(Continue reading)
There is a section on 'Deck and Safety Equipment' that includes about eight paragraphs on anchors and warps, plus a table. By the way, it is quite important that your warp should NOT float - a floating warp simply negates some/much of the effect of the total weight of the chain between the warp and the anchor shaft (just how much of an effect will depend to a great degree on the depth of water you are anchored in, plus the total length of chain attached to the anchor). Warps should have some elasticity (or 'spring') to help act as a shock absorber should the water conditions be such that the boat cycles between surging forward (usually caused by temporarily lifting the chain
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