NI Update GR 5.2.1 Win Update
2016-01-27 12:54:34 GMT
NI Update GR 5.2.1 Win Update
--to unsubscribe send a blank message to midiguitar-unsubscribe <at> yahoogroups.com--
NI Update GR 5.2.1 Win Update
NI Update GR 5.2.1 Win Update came with ,Kontact 5 player 5.2.2 Win Up date, some one loves us any details ?
Fixes : browser path reset,Fixed preset GUI/Abeton live,live view refresh etc
i'm selling my YRG and radius neck .most of you probably know what this is . for those who don't , it's . o latency midi guitar if played in left hand mode . with supper comfortable
and easy to play Radius neck -sold by retailers separately . its heads above Yamaha G 10 . for a fraction of it's price . i need to raise cash for something else hence i have few of my gear on sale on gumtree.
A lot of good advice IMHO; although I seldom do much soldering any more. BTW: I thought that lead was removed from solder a great number of years ago. Not so??? As for tinning the gun/iron tip I just heat it up and stick it in the tin of flux. Most of the time it comes out shiny. Regards, James . . > Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:26 pm (PST) . Posted by: > > > "Matt M" mattinthebox2000 > <mailto:mattinthebox2000 <at> yahoo.com?subject=Re%3A%20PG-380> > > Long time lurker here who just wanted to share my soldering experience. > Now as Bob and some others have said... > Right... use flux & dont be afraid to use plenty of it. > Besides being a "cleaner" it also aids in heat transfer from the tip > of your iron to the solder you're trying to flow. > > You don't wanna gop it on but use it liberally, spread it all over > your contacts/pads (where you want the solder to flow). > Just like with plumbing you want a solid bond without leaks (or when > dealing with electronics, intermittent connections) so you clean the > joint to ensure a good bond (cold solder joints can play hell with > electronic repairs). > You use sand paper to make the joint physically clean & the flux > ensures your bond will be chemically clean. > A little oil from a leaking cap can cause problems with the solder > sticking properly so that's where the flux is necessary to clean away > the oil & it also makes the solder flow like a pro (watch some youtube > videos of soldering IC's by hand). > Since this isn't plumbing sanding shouldn't really be necessary as > these small boards are usually kept in conditions where oxidation > shouldn't be a big problem so just a little bit of flux should do just > fine (otherwise you risk damaging the traces on the board from sanding). > The trick to a good bond is to get your iron up to temp then get in & > get out. > Overheating the pad by taking too long can cause the copper trace to > lift off the board which complicates the repair so if you're new to > soldering then practice on old electronics till you get the hang of it > & your timing is where it needs to be. > > I get alotta boards out of TV's, stereo's, computers, etc from a junk > man friend of mine to experiment with. > He says you can find electronic stuff in the trash just about anywhere. > I have re-purposed lots of it (buttons, switches, potentiometers, film > caps, etc) & have modded many guitar pedals & stuff with all the junk > he brings me. I guess I'm doing my part to be "green" & recycle. > It's important to get comfortable reflowing solder around transformers > & other components to get a feel for your equipment & what sorta time > is involved before jumping in both feet first & trashing your board. > Once you do that most all mods & repairs will be a breeze to do. > A problem I have noticed when I hear about solder not flowing for > people is that most people don't ever re-tin their tip & that can > cause heat transfer issues as well.Stop in your nearby electronics > shop, they'll have tip tinner & get the proper solder (using plumbing > solder is like trying to thread a needle with a rope, it's too big). > Grab a "kester pocket pack" of solder or equivalent. > Most electronic solder should be around .75mm (.031") - 1.0mm (.040") > in diameter & be like 60/40% Tin/Lead. > I use "Kester 44" which is 1.0mm (.040") diameter & is 66/44 Tin/Lead. > It's like $14usd for a 1lb roll & flows well. > So... Grab some solder, some size 2 desoldering wick (if you don't > have a desoldering bulb or vacuum pump for removing excess solder) & a > small can of "tip tinner", it's like a compound that prepares your tip > if its caked up with carbon.Along with tinning the tip of your iron > you should also have a damp sponge at your station as well to remove > excess solder from the tip of your iron. > Heat your iron till it's up to temp, then stick it in the tinner. Wipe > it clean on the damp sponge & your iron is ready to go.If you've > already removed the existing caps then flux the pads on the board, > place the desoldering wick on the pad then apply heat with your iron. > The flux will melt first then the solder should liquefy quickly after > then get absorbed into the wick. Remove the iron & wick while it's > still hot to prevent the wick from sticking to the board.Now apply > flux on "both" the new cap & the pad on the board.place the cap (in > the correct polarity) on the board & touch the iron to each solder > joint. It should bond quickly if prepped properly. > Usually there's enough solder left on the pads when removing/replacing > existing components but In some cases a small dab of solder is necessary. > You should only need to "tin" components when they're new, like a new > board or bare wire. > Replace any other leaking caps or defective parts in the same manner. > > If you were patient & careful you should now have a working board again. > Now that's just my opinion & it may vary from others but I've always > had good experiences using the above methods.Hope it will help some of > you guys & if you need me to clarify anything or have further > questions just holler & I'll answer to the best of my ability... > Matt > > <mailto:mattinthebox2000 <at> yahoo.com?subject=Re%3A%20PG-380> ------------------------------------ Posted by: JAMES HARRISON <res075oh <at> gte.net> ------------------------------------ --to unsubscribe send a blank message to midiguitar-unsubscribe <at> yahoogroups.com--
I'm trying to replace the cap C102. When can I find the schematic for board M380-MA2M. I need to find out where the negative of cap C102 connects.
Here is a Photo
I'm trying to replace the cap C102. When can I find the schematic for board M380-MA2M. I need to find out where the negative of cap C102 connects