The wines and herbs in the land of Pan
A survey of ancient Greek sources
reveals the surprising properties of
certain wines that continue to provoke
the curiosity of scholars today
A parody of Circe offering Odysseus
wine that contains a magical herb
that will make him behave like an animal.
Hermes has given the ancient
Greek hero another herb called moly so that
Odysseus is not seduced by
Circe. Medical historian Sevasti Karahaliou says
moly must have been
an anti-aphrodisiac. (From an early 4th century BC
Boeotian cup,
Ashmolean Museum.)
By Stavroula Kourakou
(1)
http://www.ekathimerini.com/4dcgi/news/ell__13211751KathiLev&xml/&aspKath/ell.asp?fdate=29/12/2006
In
early December, the interdisciplinary Oino Istoro (or Talking Wine)
group and
Ktima Spyropoulos winery held the "Symposium of Arcadian
Wine Talk."
I
presented a paper there, which I want to summarize here. The
inspiration for
this paper came from an extract from "The
Deipnosophists" by Athenaeus, which
refers to certain wines with
unusual qualities: "Theophrastus says that in
Heraia, Arcadia, they
produce a wine which when drunk stimulates men and
makes women get
pregnant. He also says that in Keryneia in Achaia, there
grows a vine
variety from which is made a type of wine that makes pregnant
women
miscarry; they even miscarry if they eat its grapes. The wine
of
Troezen makes those who drink it infertile. In Thassos they make a
wine
that is a soporific and another that causes
insomnia."
Concoctions
Wonderful though wine is, with hypnotic and
aphrodisiac properties
known since antiquity, it could not have such effects
on human health.
These "miraculous" properties were the result of drinking
concoctions,
as Dioscurides calls the plethora of pharmaceutical wines
whose
methods of preparation he describes. He notes that the
preparations
acquire the strength of the plant that is mixed with them, and
that
such wines are not suitable for healthy people.
Both Dioscurides
and Theophrastus describe the potency of various
herbs, that is to say their
pharmaceutical properties. For instance,
some herbs cause relaxation and help
those who have difficulty
sleeping.
Tisanes and tablets made of such
herbs are in use today in medicine
and homeopathy. In antiquity one of the
best known soporifics was
mandrake.
In the "Symposium" of Xenophon,
when the host suggests that everyone
start drinking because they are thirsty,
Socrates agrees, saying, "The
time has come to drink, my friends, because
wine, watering our souls,
puts our sorrows to sleep as mandrake puts humans
to sleep; and it
awakens cordiality just as oil livens up the
flame."
Dioscurides gives a detailed description of how mandrake wine
was
prepared by the addition of the peel from the root of the plant,
and
he adds that in large doses it was fatal.
Apart from mandrake
there were other herbs that promoted sleep, such
as aristolochia or
Dutchman's pipe, one of the well-known herbs of
Arcadia. According to
Theophrastus, robust honeyed wine, to which
shavings of aristolochia root had
been added, induced sleep. Hence it
is no surprise that on Thassos they used
to make a wine that fought
insomnia. There were then, as there are today,
herbs that promote
sleep. By contrast, just as a cup of coffee can give some
people
insomnia when drunk at night, so there were herbs which were drunk
in
wine in those days to keep the Thassiotes awake.
A glance at
Dioscurides reveals a surprising number of herbs said "to
induce abortions."
And Plutarch confirms this: "They gave pregnant
women a herb that was capable
of inducing an abortion."
The ancient Greek world, encouraged by
philosophers such as Aristotle,
who supported birth control as a means of
dealing with poverty and the
crimes that it gave rise to, used many drugs in
order to induce
abortions.
As for the paradoxical event in Keryneia
where not only the wine but
even the grapes were said to be abortifacients,
Dioscurides explains
that there is a wine that is harmful to embryos
"elleboros (hellebore)
or sikyos agrios or skammonia are planted among the
vines, and the
grapes absorb their potency," affecting the wine that was made
from
them. Naturally enough, in such circumstances the grapes
themselves
acquired abortifacient properties.
There is however a
significant difference. Those herbs were not
deliberately planted among the
vines; in many vineyards they grew
wild. Besides, in many areas the grapes
were sprinkled with salted
shavings of the root of the herbs so that the
bitter taste would
protect the fruit from locusts and other
parasites.
Anyone who happened to eat the unwashed fruit suffered the
effects of
the herb that had been used as a pest repellent. So there is
nothing
surprising about what went on in the vineyards of
Keryneia.
While many herbs are referred to as abortifacients and others
as
possessing contraceptive properties, only two of the herbs described
by
Dioscurides are mentioned in relation to male sterility. Apiganos
(Ruta
graveolens) when its seed is drunk in wine, and cultivated
cannabis when its
fruit is eaten in large quantities were said to be
spermicidal.
So
there are very common herbs among Greek flora that explain the side
effects
of the wine preparation of Troezen in the Argolid, which was
said to make
those who drank it sterile. But we must not assume that
the purpose was to
tie a man down, as with the magical herbs of the
Middle Ages and more recent
times. Apiganos was drunk in wine as an
antidote to poisons, while cannabis
has many uses – it is spun for
fiber, contains oil and is edible. Unlike
Indian cannabis, it contains
the minutest quantities of the psychoactive
substance
tetrahydracannabinol. Both, however, were said to affect
sexual
performance, just as some contemporary drugs for hypertension
create
problems with erectile dysfunction.
The first phrase in the
extract from Theophrastus concerning Arcadian
wines is hard to interpret
because the verb "existimi" has many
meanings, one of which is "make someone
go mad." But the same verb
also has the meaning of "excite, stimulate" and it
is that sense which
has been attributed to Athenaeus's translation in the
French
university collection.
The ancient sources refer to several
herbs which, apart from their
other therapeutic properties, were considered
to be aphrodisiacs,
depending on whether their seeds, buds and roots were
drunk in sweet
or dry wine, Dioscurides mentions a number of such herbs
including
akalifi (the common nettle) which, when made into a soup,
is
considered to this day to be an aphrodisiac dish.
The second
meaning of the verb fits in with the rest of the phrase in
question.
Notwithstanding immaculate conception, the women of Arcadia
could not have
got pregnant by drinking wine, no matter what
miraculous herb had been added
to it. The only way would have been if
they took advantage of the stimulating
effect of the wine on their
men.
Stimulant
In his work on the
nature of women, Hippocrates advises what should be
done if a woman wishes to
become pregnant. He counsels a woman to
drink wine and then sleep with her
husband. However, neither of the
two meanings of the verb "existimi" can be
ruled out if one takes into
account that the effect of certain herbs directly
depends on the
quantity that is taken. For example, take common coriander.
When its
seed is swallowed in small quantities in sweet wine, it
promotes
fertility, writes Dioscurides, while if it is taken in a
large
quantity it can cause dangerous confusion, so regular consumption
of
large amounts is to be avoided.
Thus coriander wine could have an
aphrodisiac effect but in the case
of abuse might lead to madness – the dual
meaning of the verb
"existimi."
I do not have the honor of being
either a doctor or a botanist. I
simply wanted to use exclusively ancient
Greek sources to examine the
properties of certain wines that raised
questions among scholars. And
so I came to Mantineia, the land of Pan, rich
in pharmaceutical herbs.
(1) Stavroula Kourakou is a chemist and
oenologist.
--
June Samaras
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