headers
mitch-frTNzpr29OE7uJ1gyvCosUEOCMrvLtNR@public.gmane.org | 2 Aug 2008 02:12

Directions to Mitch's House

Gary,

I truly appreciate your understanding and flexibility on coming to see the
marble! Thank you!

I'd print this out so you can "check off" the landmarks as you go.

Ok...From Athens take Hwy 29 North until you reach Gainesville.  You'll go
through Arcade (SPEED TRAP), Jefferson, and then on into Gainesville. 
You'll be staying on the road so no need to really start focusing until you
see a few landmarks actually in town.

On your way to Gainesville you'll cross two major roads: I-85, and I-985,
the later being about 17 miles +/- north of I-85.  Once you cross over
I-985 you'll begin to pick up the landmarks.  All landmarks will be on the
Right, unless noted.

Once you come into Gainesville, you'll see 
a Quick Trip, then 
Cargill Plant (Immense facilty)
Burger King
Then up ahead about 3 lights will be 2 "large" skyscrapers (BANKS). This
will be a major 4 way stop, and the cross street is Jessie Jewel Parkway.
Keep Going straight.
You'll pass Schlotzky's
A Chevron, and then on  up the hill where the Road "bends" to the right. 
Continue ahead following the bend.  You'll then pass the POST OFFICE.
You will see several older Victorian and Greek revival homes, now law
firms, on each side of the road.
You'll go through the next light, and then get into the RIGHT LANE.
(Continue reading)

Permalink | Reply | 0 comments |
headers
Bernard Arnest | 11 Aug 2008 04:06
Picon

sharpening rifflers? air hammer maintenance?

Hi!

Chisels are easy to sharpen-- you have one clean edge.
Rifflers, now... is it even POSSIBLE to sharpen a riffler?  How might
one go about it?
This is beyond just un-clogging them with a wire brush, of course.

Knowing how slowly sanding can go, I like conventional rifflers;
they're like saws and seem to remove a fair amount of material in
their own right.  I've always been suspicious of diamond rifflers
because, well, they work like sandpaper.  But do they in fact cut much
faster than I'm giving them credit for?  I've never tried one.  Who do
you recommend as a supplier, if you're a fan of them?

Secondly; I've been keeping the air on really low on my air hammer for
detail work.  Every now and then it'll stop-- it'll continue
vibrating, but the piston just be stuck because it's not reaching far
enough in the chamber to actually make contact with the chisel.  I
give it a strong shake and it goes back to normal.
Is this *only* because I'm starving it of air?
Or should I periodically open up the hammer and wipe it down, once a
year or something like that?
Possibly... I've been using air tool oil from harbor freight, as dark
as coffee and thick as syrup.  A couple weeks ago at a friend's
machine shop I saw he had some air tool oil as clear as water.  Are
these both valid options; or is dark, thick oil for air tools simply
cheap and inappropriate, and lighter stuff will help the piston
getting bogged down and stuck when I want low power?

thanks!!
(Continue reading)

Permalink | Reply | 1 comment |
headers
Walter S. Arnold | 11 Aug 2008 04:32
Favicon

Re: sharpening rifflers? air hammer maintenance?

At 09:06 PM 8/10/2008, Bernard Arnest wrote:

>Rifflers, now... is it even POSSIBLE to sharpen a riffler?  How might
>one go about it?

Dip them briefly in muriatic acid, then wash them off well.

>Possibly... I've been using air tool oil from harbor freight, as dark
>as coffee and thick as syrup.  A couple weeks ago at a friend's

too thick. that will clog the hammers. I use oil of vaseline (at 
least that's the name it's sold under in Italy), but some people use 
3-in-1 or the air tool oil that Trow and Holden sells.

Walter S. Arnold  * walter@...
http://www.stonecarver.com
Permalink | Reply | 3 comments |
headers
J. K. Hollis | 11 Aug 2008 04:54
Picon
Favicon

Re: sharpening rifflers? air hammer maintenance?


Bernard Arnest <berninicaco3@...> wrote:  Hi!

Chisels are easy to sharpen-- you have one clean edge.
Rifflers, now... is it even POSSIBLE to sharpen a riffler? How might
one go about it?
This is beyond just un-clogging them with a wire brush, of course.

Knowing how slowly sanding can go, I like conventional rifflers;
they're like saws and seem to remove a fair amount of material in
their own right. I've always been suspicious of diamond rifflers
because, well, they work like sandpaper. But do they in fact cut much
faster than I'm giving them credit for? I've never tried one. Who do
you recommend as a supplier, if you're a fan of them?

Hello Bernard, - The diamond coated tools don't cut any more, - they  just last longer. You may try using a band
saw blade by breaking the blade into any desired lengths and then taping several pieces together, - you can
put the points together in one direction only or turn one one-way and the next the other, making it cut in
either direction. When the points wear down, - throw it away and make anoither. Just a thought. Oh, as as far
as the oil for air hammers, the thick stuff you mention sounds too thick, I use automatic transmission
fluid.   J. Kinder Hollis
Permalink | Reply | 0 comments |
headers
Bill and Rudi Weissinger | 11 Aug 2008 05:08

Eroding alabaster

I'm carving an alabaster form which has a lot of sharp edges from cutting
kerfs and breaking off the stone in between.  I want to keep the form I
have, using the kerf-marks  but I want my kerf-lines softened to give the
whole piece an eroded, natural look.  If I were carving limestone or marble,
I'd try muriatic acid.  I know water will ultimately dissolve alabaster but
I don't want to risk the integrity of the whole stone.

I'm guessing I'll have to use the usual route of sanding, but does anyone
have other suggestions?  I didn't see anything in the archives.

Thanks,

Bill Weissinger
----- Original Message -----
Permalink | Reply | 2 comments |
headers
Don Dougan | 11 Aug 2008 06:15
Picon

Re: Eroding alabaster

Hi Bill:

RE: "I want my kerf-lines softened to give the whole piece an eroded,
natural look.  If I were carving limestone or marble, I'd try muriatic
acid.  I know water will ultimately dissolve alabaster but I don't
want to risk the integrity of the whole stone."

Sandblasting with very fine abrasive will do it.  Water does too, but
for that you need to leave it outdoors for several months (or take it
to the do-it-yourself carwash and hold the pressure-washing wand
several feet back).  Very fine strip/flap sanders (Merit's Sand-O-Flex
is one brand name) can also be used, as can very fine wire brush
wheels.  All those methods work, with slightly different effects from
each.  Experiment!

By the way, how did your recent exhibit go?  Any pictures of it on the
web, by any chance?  Curiously, I was thinking of your exhibit earlier
today and planning on asking about it.

Don

Don Dougan
www.dondougan.com
Permalink | Reply | 0 comments |
headers
Craige | 11 Aug 2008 17:38

Fw: sharpening rifflers? air hammer maintenance?


> Hi!
>
> "Chisels are easy to sharpen-- you have one clean edge.
> Rifflers, now... is it even POSSIBLE to sharpen a riffler?  How might
> one go about it?
> This is beyond just un-clogging them with a wire brush, of course."
>
 --- Not really, when they're manufactured (the ones we get in), each tooth
 is hand punched into the blades to create a sharp tooth. Trying to sharpe
 each tooth would be a very long a and tedious task. Not only that but you
 would be reducing the overall 'from new' effectiveness, as the teeth would
 only be smaller. Can I ask whose rifflers you are using? We get Renzo 
Milani
 rifflers, and to date weve had no complaints about how long they last. The
 trick is the heat treatment after the teeth have been cut. If a harsh flame
 is used, the tips burn off leaving a slighlty blunter tool. they need to be
 brought up slowly and then cooled. Diamond will outlast steel, but as a
 payoff, they dont remove material as quickly. Obviously if you wanted
 diamond chunks the size of the steel teethed equivelant, theyd be pretty
 expensive! We can get both tools, but we only stock the steel. If you want
 Diamond, let me know what style and Ill get a price for you. ---

 -- with regards to the Air hammer, the way they work is they need to travel
 the full length of stroke, before the direction of stoke is switched 
through
 some clever valve design. If there isnt enough air to push it along past
 this valve point, you can end up with air being fed to both sides of the
 plunger at the same time, thus equalling a balanced pressure, and hence no
 movement. This would also be more noticible if you where using treacle as a
(Continue reading)

Permalink | Reply | 0 comments |
headers
Bill Brayman | 11 Aug 2008 18:25

Re: Eroding alabaster

On Aug 10, 2008, at 8:08 PM, Bill and Rudi Weissinger wrote:

> I want my kerf-lines softened to give the
> whole piece an eroded, natural look

Maybe rub sand or other loose abrasive grit across it with a brush (if  
you don't have access to a sand  blaster).

Bill
Permalink | Reply | 0 comments |
headers
rgaye-ntQ8I44N4zM@public.gmane.org | 11 Aug 2008 20:28
Picon
Favicon

advice on polishing softer stones

I carve softer stone 9alabaster, soapstone, wonderstone, pipestone_as well as teaching the art. I
learned with Akemi 2012 polish and sealer, but am wondering if there is something better out there. It
needs to be easy and fast, take and hold a higher gloss, and be long lasting. What do people think?...RK in MN
Permalink | Reply | 1 comment |
headers
Bill Marsh | 11 Aug 2008 22:13
Picon

Re: advice on polishing softer stones

I use Butcher's Bowling Alley wax.  It has less tendency to make  
those little ripples in the finish.  Also a can of it lasts forever.

Bill

On Aug 11, 2008, at 2:28 PM, rgaye@... wrote:

> I carve softer stone 9alabaster, soapstone, wonderstone,  
> pipestone_as well as teaching the art. I learned with Akemi 2012  
> polish and sealer, but am wondering if there is something better  
> out there. It needs to be easy and fast, take and hold a higher  
> gloss, and be long lasting. What do people think?...RK in MN
Permalink | Reply | 0 comments |

Gmane