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link.master | 1 Apr 2006 09:07
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New/updated in the Stone Directory

1 link added or updated in the Stone Directory this week.
The full list is on http://aboutstone.org/stonehoo/New/

1. Hashemi, Abbas
    http://www.abbasculpture.co.uk/
    Stone sculptor.
    Location: UK
        updated 30-Mar-2006 by Abbas Hashemi
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greg wiley | 1 Apr 2006 21:10
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cutting sandstone

Hi
  I am thinking about getting a bandsaw for cutting 1/2 to 11/2 inch sandstone. Anyone
  done this? Wondering how they work and how long the diamond blades last.
  Thanks
  Greg
		
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Blab-away for as little as 1ยข/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
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Simon | 2 Apr 2006 02:35

Re: cutting sandstone

> how long the diamond blades last

Hi Greg,

This is a fairly open question, and the answer depends on the type of sandstone
you are planning to cut (it's really a grinding action, but everyone uses the
term 'cutting'). If it is fine grained (0.2-0.5mm), then there will be less wear
on the blade than medium or coarse grained sandstone (0.5-2mm). The type of
minerals that make up the stone, and the way the particles are bonded together
are important too. 

The diamonds in a saw blade will last longest if they are kept cool, as well as
being well-supported by the metal matrix. You need to have the best cooling and
lubricating method (i.e. jets of clean water aimed directly at the cutting zone)
so that, firstly, the diamonds don't overheat and fracture, and, secondly, to
flush the abrasive slurry away from the metal matrix holding the diamonds in
place. More info here: http://www.mkdiamond.com/home/tec_blade.html

It is also important to consider the hardness of the metal matrix - the rule of
thumb is non-abrasive stone: soft matrix; abrasive stone: hard matrix. 

This means that non-abrasive stones like limestones and marbles don't wear the
matrix very much, so the diamonds easily stand proud of the tool surface, ready
for grinding. Abrasive stones like granites, sandstones and concrete need a hard
matrix so the diamonds don't fall out. Think of peridontal disease:
http://www.perio.org/consumer/2a.html and compare it to diamonds in a metal
matrix (scroll down for the picture):
http://www.diamant-boart.com/stone.cfm?language=En&page=DT

There is technology other than band sawing to consider, such as wire sawing:
(Continue reading)

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Greg Carter | 2 Apr 2006 03:11

Re: cutting sandstone

Since he is only cutting 1/2" to 1-1/2" material I believe he is looking 
to purchase a lapidary type saw 
(http://www.cyberrockhound.com/band_saw.htm ), which should be built to 
handle the abrasive cutting.

Diamond wire and water jet are on a whole other level.
Greg.

Simon wrote:
> There is technology other than band sawing to consider, such as wire sawing:
> http://www.diamant-boart.com/stone.cfm?language=En&page=Tools1 and abrasive
> waterjet cutting: http://www.flowcorp.com/
>
>
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Robin Antar | 2 Apr 2006 09:55

Re: cutting sandstone

With sandstone you should use wet method the dust is very toxic.

Robin Antar=20

-----Original Message-----
From: greg wiley [mailto:ebit361@...]=20
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 2:11 PM
To: stone@...
Subject: [stone] cutting sandstone

Hi
  I am thinking about getting a bandsaw for cutting 1/2 to 11/2 inch
sandstone. Anyone
  done this? Wondering how they work and how long the diamond blades =
last.
  Thanks
  Greg
	=09
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1=A2/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using =
Yahoo!
Messenger with Voice.

=20
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shawnpower | 3 Apr 2006 16:23
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cutting sandstone

Hi all, cutting sandstone is definetly easier, safer and more effective when
done wet, sandstone may not be hard, but because of its make up, its very
abrasive, I have to disagree with Simons rule of thumb, its been my
experience that when buying blades for cutting stone, the softer the stone,
the harder the matrix, the harder the stone the softer the matrix, because
cutting a harder stone requires new diamonds to be exposed more quickly to
continue the cutting action, the softer stones, because of their make up
don't require the exposure of new diamonds as quickly as a harder stone
does, keeping in mind that there is usually a varying degree of hardness
within a single piece of stone, alot of the time its a trial and error
process to match blades to stone, and everybody usually has a method that
they find works best for them, thanks and remember...seven days without
stone...makes one weak.

Shawn
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Oscar Bearinger | 3 Apr 2006 16:21

cutting sandstone, addenda

Shawn,

> ...and remember...seven days without
> stone...makes one weak.

how true!!

Oscar
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VisualThinker7 | 3 Apr 2006 16:35
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Re: cutting sandstone, addenda


In a message dated 4/3/06 10:24:12 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
oscarbear@... writes:
Shawn,

> ...and remember...seven days without
>  stone...makes one weak.

how  true!!

Oscar

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Email  stone-request@... (not the list) with subject
FAQ     to get general list info
SET DIGEST   to switch to digested posts (1/2 posts per  week)
UNSUBSCRIBE    to leave the list (send from your sub  address)
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seven days without getting stoned makes one weep
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Norman Watts | 4 Apr 2006 12:00
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Re: cutting sandstone

its been my experience that when buying blades for cutting stone, the  
softer the stone, the harder the matrix, the harder the stone the  
softer the matrix, because cutting a harder stone requires new  
diamonds to be exposed more quickly to continue the cutting action,  
the softer stones, because of their make up don't require the  
exposure of new diamonds as quickly as a harder stone does, keeping  
in mind that there is usually a varying degree of hardness within a  
single piece of stone, alot of the time its a trial and error process  
to match blades to stone, and everybody usually has a method that  
they find works best for them

Sorry for the longish quote from Shawn, but he has raised several  
points. I was very interested to hear what people's thoughts would be  
on this topic because I'm just starting to learn about the  
considerations that go into buying blades. Given that they cost so  
much experimenting is not something I can afford to do a lot of, so  
it would be nice to get it right from the start. I'm surprised that  
the matrix-vs-stone issue even is an issue. Surely industry must have  
figured this out by now and after so much empirical evidence I would  
think there is no room left for opinion, philosophies or guessing at  
mechanisms. Is my assumption wrong? As for matching blades to stone,  
is there really experimentation? When I look in the Granquartz  
catalog or on the web, I see blades as either recommended for hard  
stones like granite, or not. I've never seen any discussion of  
various matrices of intermediate hardness that might be more or less  
suitable for certain types of stone.  Do different manufacturers use  
different matrices and you have to try and see how good they actually  
are? Any more opinions out there?

n
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Irwin Stone | 4 Apr 2006 12:52
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Re: cutting sandstone

Norman Watts wrote:
 When I look in the Granquartz 
 catalog or on the web, I see blades as either recommended for hard 
 stones like granite, or not. I've never seen any discussion of 
 various matrices of intermediate hardness that might be more or less 
 suitable for certain types of stone.  Do different manufacturers use 
 different matrices and you have to try and see how good they actually 
 are? Any more opinions out there?

I've been happy with New England Diamond products. A link to their catalog:

http://www.nedcorp.com/products/NED%20Catalog%202003%20paged%20final.pdf

On page 15 the list their standard wet stone blades. I use the NE-850 BE 
blade. We use this blade on granite, bluestone, limestone, tennessee 
crab orchard, and other misc stone types.  The NE60 series works well on 
virtually any marble, slates, onyx, and other softer fine grained stones.

David
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