I tried various methods of combating drafts at the sides of my quilt,
including Velcro to the pad, ribbons to pull the quilt close, and tucking
the sides of the quilt around me. The solution that works best for me is a
homemade bivy sack based on the Equinox bivy as a model. It¹s made from
silnylon (bottom) and DWR ripstop (top), so that it serves as groundsheet as
well as draft fighter, and also encloses all my stuff, whether under a tarp
or out in the open (I added a little hood at the top to keep things
together, and use my pack under my legs).

As you obviously have better sewing skills than mine, it shouldn¹t be too
hard for you to make a bivy. Mine weighs about 8 ounces, in the range of
the weights for other draft solutions, and with the added groundsheet and
organizing benefits.

Ken Maddox
Hood River, Oregon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Don,
I got a chance to get into the chemical storage rooms
and checked. The isopropinol is anhydrous and is in a largish
(10L) brown bottle. There is some mineral salt at the bottom.
Likely some calcium salt for removing moisture.
In the drug stores, it lists 91% as the highest you can
normally buy, and, as an antiseptic! I think I might pass on
that. Ethanol is better, even if it has a few percent of methanol.
My thoughts only . . .
jdm
At 04:49 PM 6/26/2008, you wrote:
>Don,
> Strictly Isopropinol, of course.
> Well, it depends on what you get. It often comes in
>at least four different types. I get it from the labs here at
>the school. Close to pure...around 95% I think. A small
>contribution proved that it makes a good cleaning fluid, too.
>This burns like other alcohols, but can leave a bit of soot
>after a 10 minute burn. It does not burn as hot as ethanol.
> The second type I get in the drug stores. This is only
>75%-90% pure and makes a poor fuel. It burns fine but is
>a bit cold and leaves a bit of soot (yellow flame.) This is
>often sold as "rubbing" alcohol." I was working on this for
>a few years, off and on, to see if I could get it to burn, but
>no results so far. The fuel is really easy to get.
> The third type you get at the drug stores as "rubbing
>alcohol" is only 50% isopropinol. This burns but does not
>make a good fuel at all.
> The fourth type is a mixture of fragrances, and other
>things. They use it for soaking earrings and other
>cosmetics. you can get it to burn, but ...
> Thanks, Don.
> jdm
>At 04:09 PM 6/26/2008, you wrote:
>>Jim, how do you manage to get Isopropyl to burn well? I've always told
>>people not to use it because it smokes, burns relatively cold (if you
>>can light it at all) and leaves soot behind. It's deliberately mixed
>>with water by the manufacturers before we get it because it's used for
>>body rubs......
>>Thanks! Don L.
>
>
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Computer Operations Manager
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Cornell University
B78A Olin Hall,
Ithaca, NY 14853
Office: 255-7312, Computer Room: 255-0480

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Hello again everyone. Each month we post this welcome to our newest
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Hello all,
 
I was out hiking this last weekend and my sole came apart from my boot.  I examined the other shoe and noticed it was coming apart too.  I have a foot that's hard to find a boot that works and I like.  This is the second pair of boots that I have from this company.  The first pair are a little older and seem to be holding just fine.  My guess is that they tried a different bonding material this time around. 
 
So basically I'm asking what type of bonding glue would you recommend for this shoe?  It's leather uppers with a Vibram rubber sole.  Any links to procedures would help but not mandatory.
 
Thanks for any and all responses regarding this matter.
 
Allan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Allan, this is one of those situations that makes some of us wish for
the old stitched soles. Those only had to be taken to a good cobbler
to be re-stitched. It's also not a bad idea in this case; at least
get the opinion of a good cobbler, they seem to have access to
adhesives that are just amazing, way beyond any do-it-yourself
remedies.

The problem is that you need something with good bond strength but
also something that will stay flexable, and that's a tricky
combination. If you're absolutely determined to try fixing it
yourself, I've had good results from using Shoe-Goo or one of the
other similar products used to patch worn soles. They can also can be
used as an adhesive to re-attach soles that are delaminating from the
rest of the boot.

The procedure I've used is to clean and thoroughly dry the areas that
needed repair. Then I'd put the Shoe-Goo in a thin layer between the
two areas that need to be bonded and gently clamp them together with
some duct tape or something similar so they can't move. Leave them
completely alone to dry for at least three days. Don't move them
around at all for that length of time.

Best, Don L.

Allan Alessio <allanalessio <at> ...> wrote:

> ...... basically I'm asking what type of bonding glue would you
recommend for this shoe?  It's leather uppers with a Vibram rubber
sole.  Any links to procedures would help but not mandatory.
>  
> Thanks for any and all responses regarding this matter.

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I'm looking for a light, reasonably priced GPS for a 100% offtrail
trip. I need to program in a route and have it guide me through that
route, as well as provide UTM coords that I can plot on a map.
Shopping for this is a bit confusing because of the feature creep that
seems inherent in these devices. Battery life, reliability and weight
are all that matters - not a color screen or video games.

I'm currently looking at the Garmin Foretrex 101 - I hear great stuff
about it. Any comments? http://www.rei.com/product/715743

Can anyone offer advice?
thanks,
Patrick

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I can't help but ask. Are you getting the boots near heat in camp , like
sitting around the fire, or drying them with heat? I had to relearn a lot
when I first started wearing bonded soles on boot from Rocky back in the
early 80's. You couldn't even dry them with paper inside over the register
in the house. Bonding has gotten a lot better since and I feel safe using a
Peet's boot drier but that is about it and I don't leave them on it over
night.
Pat C.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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The best boot cobbler in the world, is Dave Page Cobbler.
http://www.davepagecobbler.com/

Ken

Through not observing what is in the mind of another a man has seldom
been seen to be unhappy; but those who do not observe the movements
of their own minds must of necessity be unhappy.
--- Marcus Aurelius

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Allan Alessio" <allanalessio <at> yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 7:47 PM
To: <BackpackingLight <at> yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [BackpackingLight] How do I rebond hiking shoe sole?

> Hello all,
>
> I was out hiking this last weekend and my sole came apart from my boot. I
> examined the other shoe and noticed it was coming apart too. I have a foot
> that's hard to find a boot that works and I like. This is the second pair
> of boots that I have from this company. The first pair are a little older
> and seem to be holding just fine. My guess is that they tried a different
> bonding material this time around.
>
> So basically I'm asking what type of bonding glue would you recommend for
> this shoe? It's leather uppers with a Vibram rubber sole. Any links to
> procedures would help but not mandatory.
>
> Thanks for any and all responses regarding this matter.
>
> Allan
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> +-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
> BackpackingLight Mailing List
> To unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
> BackpackingLight-unsubscribe <at> yahoogroups.com
>
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> Links
>
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>

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Sounds like it might be worth contacting the company. It might be a
new glue they're trying, but it might have been one bad batch, or the
glue heating machine may not have been set to the right temperature,
or who knows what. You're probably not the only person they will have
heard from about this. I bought a pair of boots a couple of years ago
(They were Tecnicas) and within days on the trail a shoelace loop
pulled out. I contacted the company, the boot had been on sale
because it was discontinued but they looked around the country and
found me a new pair to replace the defective ones. It's worth a try.

> I was out hiking this last weekend and my sole came apart from my
boot. I examined the other shoe and noticed it was coming apart too.
I have a foot that's hard to find a boot that works and I like. This
is the second pair of boots that I have from this company. The first
pair are a little older and seem to be holding just fine. My guess is
that they tried a different bonding material this time around. >

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I do that with my 76S and the MapSource software. It is a larger unit than
you are wanting but the software works well to do this with. I keep looking
at the foretrex units also. I have said it before but I like DeLorme better
and I can put in waypoints or exchange them with it BUT I can not get the
contour lines to go into the unit using it, otherwise it would be the only
software I use. Nat. Geo. might be good but I have not used it so can't
speak about it.

Battery life has seemed to double for me since switching to E squared by
Energizer. Duracell had been my standard I compared batteries to before that
. These batteries are lighter and you can take a spare set for a little over
half the weight of others so combined the set you use and spares come to
something around the weight of a set and a half and last so much longer and
better in the cold!

Feature creep?? I can't tell what one unit or another does very well from
the descriptions given on sites and in stores the folks selling units for
the most part don't know the units due to them not getting out and using
several different ones or even getting out and using any unit like you would
be.

As far as "hardware" are you using a "racing tool" or corner tool or full
square type? I got to try a corner tool and like it. It is accurate enough
to get you really really close. Probably as good as anyone needs to find
property boundaries or water, passes, etc.

Pat C.

Did any of that help? Trust me on the batteries, they are a huge difference.

On Wed, Jul 2, 2008 at 8:20 AM, patrickpdk <pkee-PjAqaU27lzQ@public.gmane.org> wrote:

> I'm looking for a light, reasonably priced GPS for a 100% offtrail
> trip. I need to program in a route and have it guide me through that
> route, as well as provide UTM coords that I can plot on a map.
> Shopping for this is a bit confusing because of the feature creep that
> seems inherent in these devices. Battery life, reliability and weight
> are all that matters - not a color screen or video games.
>
> I'm currently looking at the Garmin Foretrex 101 - I hear great stuff
> about it. Any comments? http://www.rei.com/product/715743
>
> Can anyone offer advice?
> thanks,
> Patrick
>
> __.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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